yup. a stock pp and clutch disk is close to $300!!!! at the ONLY local dealership around of course. good thing there's champion. only $120 for the two.
of course they're are going to have it in stock. what parts house even dealership carrys hg for every car. none. get a felpro hg set and arp bolts. more than enough for your n/a. i'm running one on my car at @12psi with arp bolts and have put almost 15k on daily driving the shit out of it. oh...
DID THEY MACHINE THE FRONT TIMING BELT PLATE. name could be wrong, but if he forgot or didn't know to the front of the head will sit a couple thousand too high depending on how much was taken from the head. where the front cylinders low on compression?
that would be my guess being this...
i have one too. it does take time to get used to because the stock ones throw are so long. i have been running it for about 4 months now and love it. the hight is perfect. not too low like those ricer ones that actually take so long to get you had to them they're pointless. its the last shifter...
yeah. i said in my first post i thought it could be .5mm but wanted to get other opinions. i just want to start shoping around. i'm not in a rush at all. i thought i would get a thread going considering when you seach there sure isn't much as far as piston rings. i'm most likely going to go with...
i'm going to try to just get by with a hone. this motor isn't going to be a prim build. i'm going to do a mhg and make sure all the clearences are ok, but i just want a motor i can beat on over the summer at the drags and finally go the lex/550s i practically have everything already. i just...
so i'm starting to think about what kind of rings and bearings i want use on my winter project. i seach and didn't find as much as i thought i would about where people got their rings. all i found is that the totalseal gapless rings seem to have a bad rep. the bearings are standard .25mm...
i use a 6" extension and a deep 14mm with a small wrachet to sneak behind the starter leaving plenty of room under the intake for me to get a good hold on it plus a 14mm wrench to hold the nut on the back. its hard to do under the car because the nut will just spin with the bolt.
if you ask me they're all china knock offs. i wouldn't be surprise if they both are from the exact same factory. same with a majority of the ebay ones. i say if you want true quality get a real spearco or hks that is authentic. other wise i don't see a BIG difference between any of the knock...
it does come down to how much cash he has. the choices are simple spend less to rebuild the 7m that will peak at about 500hp unless you really go crazy with it. then the daily reliability goes through the drain. or go with a 2jz that for the price of a built 7m will leave you with a stock 2jz...
thats my plan with my haggard build except i'm using a mhg, new bearings, and rings. yet i'm not expecting it to go 100k. it should keep me entertained over this spring and summer. then i might fully build my motor thats in my car right with forged rods, pistons, the whole deal because it hasn't...
no way would i ever swap out that tip for a genaric magnaflow that sounds like fucking every busted up talon, neon, and 240sx around. for some reason i never see hondas with those. i don't see why you bought it if you don't like the cannon. i'm pretty sure the dragger has BIGGEST cannon out of...
thats my new car. something must have happened. i think i missed third in that one because i'm positive i have beat that bmer. that still cool to see. this coming spring my car should be pretty quick compared to how it is now. i can't wait. lol.
i daily drive my supra and i don't see any problem with that. if something breaks i fix it. plain and simple.
yet i do have a arsenal of spare parts. lol.
how about the size?
i was thinking of going 2" to the ic and 2.5" to the tb. i'm curious what you were thinking of going with? also what others run with a ct?
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