^what caused it to fail? the bearing on there seems pretty stout. its also sealed, so it can't dry out. i'm curious what would cause it to fail. and in 4th there are no gears to bind. so with that theory it should go away in 4th.
when the output shaft bearing fails there become massive play...
if a noise in a tranny goes away in 4th thats usually something to do with the counter shaft. becasue the power is going straight from the input shaft to the output shaft putting no load on the countershaft so the noise goes away.
it might be your diff though. does it wine? you want to be...
thats a bold statement. where the hell do you get that idea? what is going to cause that? that bearing has the least amount of stress. it supports the smallest shaft in the tranny next to rev idler shaft. thats about the most unlikely bearing to fail in the whole tranny. :rofl:
its actually...
all you need are the tools in post 3. and a bearing puller set. for the special cool tool you guys are worried about the right set of vblocks works fine. here is a sneak peak of how i did it. worked for eveything, but the 1-2 that i had to use a press for that with the bearing puller clamp. if...
^yeah, they were already on my motor and i just went off what i was told on sf. i'm just trying to help him sleep at night. lol. i was really paranoid after the hg job too. now i don't even worry about it.
i know better know, but at the time nobody had the sheet. so i decided i would go...
^LOL.
its ture. they might just not like you. :biglaugh: every time i have bought anything from them they have cut me a deal and shipped real fast (nurspec hks dp and intake). i did call and talk to someone each time. that was like a year ago too.
dude you must live in some shaddy ass neighborhood with all these people messing with your car.
car doesn't look that bad. plus red is the second best color for a supra so you can't go wrong there. good luck with the car.
how much did you pay for it?
^thats actually not a bad idea. it might just spool a little quicker because it will have to pressurize post ic before the wg gets the boost on the diaphragm.
yes you can take the tail shaft housing cover off and the main case. you will be left with the gearset and intermediate plate in one little bundle. not hard at all.
but you want to be dam positive thats it before you do that. clean it up good then drive it for a while and trace the leak.
^well that $600 can go up real fast if when they take it apart and it looks something like this. it was $110 for new 1st gear from champion. and i had to get the 1-2 hub $90 from champion. let alone new syncros, snaprings, bearings, seals, ect... all being from toyota is going to run you a...
so it's officially on my christmas list of parts. woot woot.
after reading how other people like it on other forums it seems like i good ebc. i guess i'll find out for myself. here are a couple threads that i thought some people might find useful if interested in the tru boost. on the subaru...
anyone?
if you have one thats different that holds the same amount of boost say in 1st as it does in 4th let me know which one? or is boost creep something a ebc won't fix?
i know this is an old thread, but i figured i would ask my question in here so the info is all in one thread.
for those that have this on a internal wg is setting the boost difficult? how consistant is it? i want an ebc that will boost a consistant boost wheather i'm in 1st or 4th.
leave it up to those rich arabs to trash a nice supra. they put that little 1j to death and almost killed the dam camera guy plus like five other people. :rofl: :aigo:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c4MccT2gdxA
i love these types of threads. i thinks its so funny how on here such a little thing can start a battle of the brains. :rofl:
and i would like to hear how it turns out to the op. pics would be cool to.
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