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Why would you install internals, before machining the engine. Plus a torque plate is for boring and honing of cylinders. What exactly needs to be done on this engine?

He's getting fuel to the rail, so the filter would not be the problem. P.S. Read this post. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101090&highlight=fuel+filter+myth

Yes, the fuel in the rail, and in the injector body is what can cause it. New fuel in the tank means nothing. And yes, you can use a screwdriver as a stethoscope, it's just a tad more difficult to use than a real one.

Cold start injector, perhaps? A Supra is designed to idle around 1400 rpm on cold start, and will do so for a few minutes until it gets warm enough to run normally.

livinasask8er, my comment wasn't specifically about you. It just seems like, I see so many threads about timing issues. It truly is one of the easiest things you can do on a 7M.

Hey Grim, I just went to the site, and they don't have any rims for the Supra. What's up with that?

My stock 92 rims look better. And they're filthy!:aigo:

Yeah, well they're not as nice as those ST 4's I linked to.:naughty:

Try Tirerack.com You can find a good deal there...

My engine is running right now, on ebay pistons, rings, wrist pins, bearings, intercooler and hard pipes, and radiator hoses, not to mention the gasket set, and ARP head studs I got on ebay as well.

Are you maybe talking about a fuel cut defender? If so, throw it away, do not pass go, and do not collect $200.00

Yes, old gas can turn to varnish, and clog the injectors. Check the injectors with a stethoscope, and if they're firing, they're probably clogged.

It baffles me that so many people have a hard time with timing a 7M, cause they're about the easiest engine to time I have ever worked on. Try timing a subaru sometime. Now that's a pain in the ass.

Check the seller ratings Not just the numbers, but read the comments, especially the negatives.

Yeah, they have spring clamp pliers, but IDK if it would help him in that tight spot. The angled pliers that grim linked to would probably be the best way. I use the same type for my spring clamps.

If you can get something on one of the ears, you can rotate the clamp to a better position to remove it. I've taken that clamp off a number of times, without removing the valve cover.

Wow, I can't believe I never thought to try that tool.:icon_roll

I've never use a torque wrench on those nuts, and none of the engines I've worked on ever fell out of the car.

Bling! The pressure in a radiator isn't too high, and a good quality hose in good condition will be fine. Remember, if you use a hard pipe, you still have to attach it with hoses.

Then maybe the contacts weren't the problem in your case. I've done it on mine, to good effect.