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How well do you know the history of this car? I'm not sure of the year break, but the newer 7M's have a total of five connections on the thermostat housing, 2 on the front part, and 3 on the part that connects to the head. At least my 92 does. Possibly you have a newer wire harness.

That's definitely not the O2 sensor plug, the turbo O2 sensor is three wire, and that's only a single wire connector. Unless someone hacked something there.

How much was in the overflow tank to begin with? Did you fill it higher than the max line? On first start up after rebuild, mine was pushing a little coolant until it stabilized, and all is fine now.

Yeah, if that pics any indication, it does look like ass!

Just an idea, but if you place the dipstick in the tube, and mark it where it exits the tube, add measurement of the depth of the recess in the block tube, and mark it accordingly, then you should be able to put the dipstick in the block tube as far as the final mark, and achieve the correct...

Electronic Parts Catalog.

I want one of those f-ing digital dashes!

I stand corrected, I didn't look at all the pics, and I just found one that shows the ports clearly. Oil only after all.

It takes like 2 minutes to check the EPC for that info. Try it.

Look again, it clearly has two flanges, 180 degrees opposite, like the CT26.

I can't be sure from the photos, but if the bolts mounting the exhaust and compressor housings are evenly spaced, you should be able to clock it to line up the oil and coolant flanges.

The advanced enamels of today can be can be metallic, and still be single stage. The paint I use for my door handle is single, and I have teal paint. It came out great too. To bad the used handle had a crack in it, and has since busted, so now I gotta get more paint.

Limp mode locks it at 3000 rpm. Check the AFM plug like IJ said.

Look more carefully at the pics, there definitely is a coolant line flange on the housing.

I checked his feedback, and it seem the turbos he sells have made the buyers happy. Looks like a nice piece, and a good price. I may go with this unit to replace my old tired CT26. So, definitely buy it and test it out for us, OK.:biglaugh:

Based on your description, I'm gonna say backing plate. It's real easy to bend a backing plate, especially an old rusty one, and when it rides on the rotor, all sorts of noises are possible. Easy fix if it is, just take the wheel off, and bend it away from the rotor.

Toyota wiring is pretty solid, so I wouldn't expect the wiring to be bad. Replace the switch, and see what happens. According to the EPC, it's the same part # through 8/89. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291410/Parts/84550.aspx

Oh, OK!

Dude, look carefully at the ebay pic. The bar is counter sunk bolted to the plates, and it can obviously be moved to different holes than the one shown in the pic. Now, I'm not saying it's as good as the DoLuck, but for 45 bucks shipped, I'd give it a try, and I will as soon as I get some money.

You should read the post from the link in my previous post as well.