Search results

As some of you are already aware, I am in the break-in phase of a rebuild. With much help of other members I have been successful in getting past all of my start-up issues so far! So now I have about 385 miles on it, still running with TruBoost off, so WG spring only and still have not...

Basic question - If I am seeing the electrical schematic correctly, the voltage at the ECU should be roughly the same as the charging voltage? Is that correct? My reason for asking is - My Neo has a voltage monitor and when running only shows 11.9 to 12.8 depending on rpms, I double checked...

Pushloc here, but only for oil at this time... but yeah I use the Windex trick to get them on and went on easy and have not had any of them leak yet and doubt they will...

THANK YOU to all you helped out on this thread! I drove it 40 miles today and no missing, no hesitations up to 5psi and 5k rpm anyway... :icon_bigg So here is the situation, I know I will chastise myself 1st, I replaced two things at once before driving... Well yesterday I grounded the...

I agree with absolutjimmy_85, look for a used stock ct26 until you can afford the $600 or so for a decent CT26 bolt-on upgrade. You can find them on this site, ebay or craigslist on a regular basis

To produce 3vdc, use two batteries (AAA, AA, C, D) they are all 1.5vdc, so tape two of them in series and use a jumper wire from the positive on top battery and negative on the bottom battery and you now have 3vdc... Your CPS readings are within range, TRSM says 140-180 ohms. You are sure you...

Good to know - Thanks! I think the TRSM online is actually an 89 if IIRC, so perhaps why it does not show it... either way it is not fully seated so I will do so and reset EFI in case it altered it's learning process... By tomorrow I should have 2nd ignitor and 2 additional AFM electronics so...

Thanks Jdub for your time - see below Yeah, I guess I was making sure that I was not peaking out the ECU trying to add fuel, as I assumed that it is best to be running at the 2.2vdc which is baseline fuel for the ECU... But yes my next game plan that I had not tested yet was to check the...

Thank you for the thought, I have somewhat ruled that out as it is a new Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator with a gauge and it does hold steady during all operations.

Yeah good point, as you may have read, I added like 5 more grounds to my motor and accessories... so I will create a solid ground to the ignitor and see if that helps... Quick turn around job came in, so looks like it will be tomorrow evening before I can touch the car again... I appreciate...

On Treo Device today, so hope it works ok to post... Isn't the ignitor grounded through mounting? maybe there is an insulator, not with car, will check tonight. I am using standard NGK coppers, new part # IIRC is 6282... at this time gapped at .28 was going to go down to .26 once broke in...

Aw yeah good idea... so if you unplug afm, ecu just goes back to guess and runs down the middle for fuel (or is that just O2 sensor)? What input will it use to determine to add fuel? I can use tech air on ignitor...

Thank you, appreciate it. Filter - AEM DryFlow I was already working on getting the AFM electronics from earlier issue of Vf signals seeming to not be steady. I was become suspicious of the ignitor, as I am sure you saw I did test it, but bench testing only can tests so much and when...

I did want to add one point of interest, not sure it matters - This particular issue was not here before I tore car down and it was not here for the 1st 122 miles of break-in. Nothing significant took place when it this issue started. I was troubleshooting a lean condition issue, seemed to...

My issues began with a Lexus AFM question but have graduated to a whole different level, so thought it best to begin a new thread with a compilation of the process I have followed. Once again in-case anyone did not see the original thread, here is the link (...

Yeah that is for sure... it sounds like you may be in the electronics industry so I'm sure it is not the 1st and won't be the last manufacture's instructions for testing that suck dirty sweat socks :icon_bigg Going to town to get parts needed to my leak-down tester...

I just re-read what I wrote and your response here... not sure if understanding was correct... when I said "The resistance test per TRSM is good." I didn't mean it is a good test... I meant the resistance value @ OAT was within spec... but I saw on another thread where you listed the other pin...

I am not certain about using walbro on all stock, but I do know that you can get a stock pump made by Carter (long time aftermarket pump manufacture) for about $125 or so. I have one that I only used for about 1k miles before I tore down car and ending up with a Denso MarkIV pump... PM me if you...

Well I was missing an end for my CLT, so I borrowed just a basic compression tester. Keeping in mind that the engine is cold, so I am not using readings to determine actual compression, rather are there any that have a large variance. 1 - 152 2 - 152 3 - 151 4 - 145 5 - 152 6 - 153...

Funny you should say that, I am running to storage unit this am, where I have a leak-down tester, to do just that (might have to find thread adapter, it was setup for airplane engine) I am starting to get suspicious of the same issue argh... fresh long-block re-build from a highly reputable shop...