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Hvyman has a good point if you are keeping your wheels, I fought with that in my own mind when I put wheels and tires on last week (it would be nice to be able to rotate)... I ended up doing 18x8 in front and 18x9.5 in rear, but the total height of front and Rear tires are the same... My last...

Did you have fuel before you changed out fuse? or was it a result of changing it out? How did you verify you had fuel (pressure gauge or just cracked a line to see what came out? Is it dripping out of exhaust pipe or do you mean off of the exhaust somewhere else like DP area? If coming...

Not having a dry place to work on it, will be for sure your greatest struggle I am afraid, but you gotta do what you gotta do...So I am a little confused still on your 1st post? Which of the descriptions is describing the blown fuse on fuel pump, versus your current issue? I understand it will...

Perhaps I am missing something, but it sounds like there is a contradiction in your statement, idle rough and dying is not the same as not starting... that would be "it won't stay running"... so if wiggling the CPS wires caused it to go from not firing at all to firing but not running, I would...

Ya you betcha lol... you may be one of the Supras that I said to my wife as she roll's her eyes... "Hey look another Supra..." Not sure if it just plain friggin funny or sad... but never the less reality

Hey Welcome jdmfreak, I am a little new myself to this forum, but wanted to say Hi since I am just up the road from you a ways... I am in Lewis County... Chehalis area... Since I do not want to be off Topic.. let see... You know you are a supra owner when you never run out of "Oh I gotta do...

As stated above from hvyman, it goes down to a vacuum valve on the top of the power steering pump. There are two lines connected to the power steering vsv, one goes to bottom side of accordion and the other goes to the metal bypass line that goes around front of motor and connects to the main...

Correct, it takes a bit of time, as you have to have someone else turn the motor over from the crank pulley bolt. What I did is use a sharpie to number each bolt hole in the order of torque per TRSM, so that I knew which bolt was which looking through inspection holes. Also the clutch disk and...

Nope, I thought it was easy to install, just make sure you follow the diagram for the vacuum lines, as it is different routing depending on whether you are using an internal or external WG... If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to PM me or even call me... 360-749-6103 cell#

Assuming you are going to put it all back in... Just remember whether you pull the tranny and put it all back in as one piece (my recommendation) or if you leave tranny in place and put motor back in - TRSM instructs to place pressure plate and disc on input shaft, then slide motor into place...

Thanks te72! I edited my previous post a little, as your answer made me realize I did not explain my concern of where I thought I might end up rubbing very well... If you are speaking of the base mount that the spring sits on (attached to shock looks like), it is the same diameter as the...

I have new wheels and tires coming in tomorrow, I am a little concerned in regards to fitment, but I think I am good with other info listed on this thread : Front I think I am good on - 18x8 +40 235/40/18 Rear I am concerned about rubbing on inside shock mount - 18x9.5 +40 265/35/18 ***...

I talked to AEM... How the book describes this setting seems a little off, but never the less, the setting is variable for every vehicle and you just need to adjust until it no longer spikes or oscillates as in my case (I have seen mine spike when I set mine as high as 9, just to see what...

Thanks for the reply. This is what I assumed was happening, I guess my question is, there is no settings known to smooth the transition from the solenoid staying closed to going to x or y duty cycle and or back again? My issue is that if spring pressure is set to 7.5, which by their manual is...

I have been using the AEM TruBoost since my re-build, now have about 6k miles since start-up, all is going very well! One of the minor issues I am still working through and would like to get resolved before I go for a dyno run next weekend, is the settings and responses on the boost...

Well after some struggles with some other issues, I have about 2,500 miles on the rebuild... but my vacuum is still at 18-19, I know this is within range, but considering my results for leak-down and compression that I did awhile back, I would think I would be in the 21 range... not sure that I...

Yes indeed! Now onto hopefully more minor items... after doing some logs it would appear that I am getting some boost creep, so onto troubleshooting that issue... Thanks again IJ

Appears to have been a success... got side tracked on the kind of work that pays for a couple of days... but got it all put back together and then started yesterday and drove about 50 miles, thus far no sign of engine oil anywhere :-) Thank you to all for your responses and insight!

Damn I can feel my hair falling out already... should have went with the Vipec :biglaugh: