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Should be close to the same imo, it is only 10cc different than mine...

Seems to running pretty good now, need to put fenders, bumper and hood back on so that I can do more than drive on the back road we live on... so here is what I did - To get AFRs where I think they should be, correct me if I am wrong, I am hanging out at 14-15 while driving, throttle no more...

Thank You guys - damn I missed that point, I did take the neo out of the picture already... just disconnected and wired the Karman signal back together... still no codes... I will check wiring on AFM again, I will back track color coding to make sure I didn't screw up, as I had to extend wires...

It jumps off the meter, I think my AEM max read is 18 then it just reads -- ... yeah similar issue, but yeah mine is bad, if I am driving and it does it, it lurches, when not moving, it sounds like it is going to die but then comes right back up in a steady on off on off on and so on... well...

Background - fresh re-build, all new vacuum, coolant and oil lines, fresh rebuilt turbo, 90% of the wiring has been inspected and gone through for any needed repairs. So I finally got the car ready for start-up last night and after a couple of minor issues she started up, no oil leaking, no...

Thanks Kenny - Yeah that makes sense, at least I will be able to have a 1" insert welded on to alleviate the reduction in size, someone else had a thread on here with the BOV and reduced to the stock size and still had issues with surge, as the BOV was not able to pass the pressurized air...

I am not sure if you could see the image on the post, doesn't always display for me, so I added a link also... The stock BOV input is in the middle below BOV, so would have to do a 180 and a 90 to get to it, then reduce it to a 5/8 input... the new location would allow enough room to just do...

I am using a Synapse BOV and plan to recirc, as I am using a NEO controller. My accordion was replaced with a stainless steel one, the inserts are in the same location. The position of my BOV is right above the stock BOV recirculation insert, so not realistic to try to contort a line to that...

Which end was cut? The connector attached to the CPS or the connector attached to the harness? With that information I can give you the point to point details that you need...

You could check there 1st, use a meter to make sure the brake switch contact is changing state when you push on the brake pedal. Below you will find a link to the wiring diagram for the brake lights, follow the line and just keep check from the source to the light till you find your issue...

I am using a stainless steel one, but yes had to use a 3" to 3.xx" silicone 45 degree coupler - don't remember exact size, it also interferes with the PS pump reservoir a little so ended up moving it, but the one I am using also forced me to put air filter under headlight, as the Lexus AFM body...

Your 1st question, I would look for obvious issues with CT26, cracks etc... but when they get turbo, they will inspect and let you know if it is usable, unless catastrophic failure, I would think that mist of the time they are usable. 2nd question - has been debated on this site, but with the...

My personal opinion is to go with a rebuild from driftmotion (link below) They will do anywhere from stock compressor wheel to 57trim upgrade depending on your other plans with mods/upgrades... I know there a lot of options out there, but I think these guys are a good balance of quality and...

This should give you the info that you need... read the entire thread as there are some clarifications made through-out... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?19718-DIY-Boost-Leak-Tester

The only thing that comes to the top of my mind, but not sure if it can leak... is the ICS valve runs back to the cold air intake, it is controlled off of coolant temp I think? I know coolant runs through it off the bypass tube. There is coolant in the turbo, but I think would have to have a...

Here are a couple of threads that discuss how the knock sensor works, the theory of operation and some ways of testing them... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?96295-Knock-Sensor-Issues&p=1315799#post1315799...

Hopefully someone else with more experience with the knock sensors will chime in, but if the back one needs to come off, I loosened mine 1/2 turn so that the release snap was towards the front and it slipped out without removing starter, as I did the same putting it back in, so that I could put...

There is not much information to work with. Please provide more details: Has it ever started since it was rebuilt or is this the 1st start that is unsuccessful? What troubleshooting have you already done? Can you tell if it is fuel or spark related that it won't fire? Was it running before you...

One was square? Perhaps someone else can chime in here, not familiar with a square connector on a knock sensor. Are the sensors identical? How far did you replace the wiring? All the way to the ECU? The TRSM appears to ground the ECU end of the shield (not sensor), so if you only replaced a...

So is it on a stand or is it still in car? If it is on a stand, I took a piece of 1/4" stock 2" wide, drilled two holes in it to run two flywheel bolts through and made it long enough hit the stand leg on the ground, then used a breaker bar with a 48" cheater bar... came loose right away... but...