The symptoms seem the same as when my fuel pump fuse-able link blew out because i didn't disconnect the battery when i installed a new alternator (dumb or lazy not sure which yet). So i have a fast crank and it sounds like it wants to start every now and then but seems like a back fire occurs. Right before this the car seemed to idle rough when i started it and when i gave it some gas it settled out and idled smoothly. I read through some other posts, but am still at a loss. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. going to grab a voltmeter from work an check for spark on Monday.
Car wont start, but drove fine yesterday
- Thread starter totaljim22
- Start date
Check the cam position sensor connector. They are bad for the wires to break off. Pull on them a little and see if they come off. I solder them up on mine. Some people disagree about soldering but that is the main source. It is just me but I won't to make sure the ecu is receiving that signal. Have somebody wiggle the connector and see if it starts. If so there is your problem.
I wiggled and checked the wire connections. still no start. She just idled really rough and died a couple times. Checking pressure at the fuel rail tonight. Of course when the supra breaks the rain sets in... blahhhh
totaljim22;1629854 said:
Perhaps I am missing something, but it sounds like there is a contradiction in your statement, idle rough and dying is not the same as not starting... that would be "it won't stay running"... so if wiggling the CPS wires caused it to go from not firing at all to firing but not running, I would check into them further. I would pull any protective covering off down to the wire insulator and check for cracking and breakage of the copper itself. You can also pull the cover and with an additional wire to extend the leads on a multi-meter or a meter that will read resistance and check resistance from where wires terminate in the CPS all the way to where they land on the ECU (reminder from your 1st post - disconnect battery before metering this to the ECU, as you will want to disconnect molex connector from ECU before checking wire resistance) You should see very little resistance. Not sure if I have a definitve value, but I would think less than 10 ohms, in addition you can compare the value of the 4 wires, they should all be about the same.
Because of issues with my existing wires, I ended up redoing the whole connector, I still used a connector in the event I want to remove the CPS, but mine seems to work very smoothly, I have timing monitor on my maftpro and timing is pretty smooth on my logs.
May or may not be your issue, but based on what I got of your last post, that is where I would start. If there is a miss-understanding of your last post, please clarify or elaborate.
Sorry If i was not clear. The car will do a quick turn over, intermittently it will start, but when it does it idles really rough for at most 20 seconds, while it is idling rough if you try and touch the gas it just bogs down and cuts out. I examined the wires and all seemed fine. wiggling them seemed to have no effect on the way it is acting. I am now armed with a voltmeter and hoping the rain clears up long enough for me to get under the hood. Thanks for all the advice so far hopefully it gets me somewhere this evening.
totaljim22;1629936 said:
You need to check your engine codes. If you don't know how here is a link. It now sounds like afm problems but start with the codes the computer gives you. Follow the instructions it will tell you how to check your codes.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx
totaljim22;1629936 said:
Not having a dry place to work on it, will be for sure your greatest struggle I am afraid, but you gotta do what you gotta do...So I am a little confused still on your 1st post? Which of the descriptions is describing the blown fuse on fuel pump, versus your current issue? I understand it will not start or will barely but not run, but did anything happen just before that? Were you working on anything, any other symptoms that seemed to creep up on you over time then one day it wouldn't start or was it running just fine, then one day wouldn't start? This may help in where to start, otherwise there is a whole list of items that could be verified to make sure they are working, but would take additional tools and time that you may not have...
I have spark and fuel. cps seems to be working fine. checked out the AFM its good to go. Now im thinking when i saw white smoke the last cold night that i drove it, that it may have been the precursor to what i am about to describe. During the course of my engine on engine off try and start disconnect and see what happens volt meter shenanigans the car actually started. I switched the fuel pump fuse and tried turning her over. This time she fired up and sputtered really rough but responded to the pedal and actually leveled out after i gave it some gas. I turned her off and restarted her just fine a couple times scratched my head and noticed she was pouring some serious white exhaust out the back, my initial thought was it was cold out yada yada. I then noticed a nice little puddle of coolant that seemed to be running off of my exhaust. engine on no dripping or running, but apparently over the course of starting coolant is escaping somewhere hoping to god not in cylinder and exiting via exhaust. Exhaust doesn't smell like BHG and it idles smooth once it gets going and no milky oil. Even the coolant overflow is half full. Doesn't seem to be running like any car with a BHG i have ever seen. The two things must be interconnected. I have just shy of 2000 miles on my fresh swapped in engine. Maybe arp head studs not torqued properly and water jacket seeping into cylinder while cranking?? Tomorrow rolling her onto ramps and praying its some random coincidence coolant leak, but i think that is just ignorant hope right now.
totaljim22;1630173 said:
Did you have fuel before you changed out fuse? or was it a result of changing it out? How did you verify you had fuel (pressure gauge or just cracked a line to see what came out?
totaljim22;1630173 said:
Is it dripping out of exhaust pipe or do you mean off of the exhaust somewhere else like DP area?
If coming through exhaust - Not too many things that could cause this as far as I am aware. BHG is one, perhaps a turbo seal where coolant runs through it (if someone else could please verify if coolant can leak into exhaust side of turbo).
You sure could check torque on head studs - so is that 2k on a rebuild? Where I am going with that is - Did you re-torque ARP head-studs after 5 heat cycles from when it was first started up?
While you are at it, next easy thing is to pull plugs and look into cylinders for coolant.
If off exhaust like DP or something then could be leaking from numerous locations...
If coolant not related then -
How did you verify the AFM was good to go?
Did you try to jumper the FP at the diagnostic block (B+ and FP IIRC) It is the most upper left and the most lower left pins this will bypass fuel pump relay and resistor and send 12+ straight to FP
Let me know how it goes, I am sure far from the brightest one on this site, but always willing to help if I can...