Search results

If it's guitars you want, here on SUPRAmania, I'll post some for you later today, when I get home.

I wouldn't try combining them, as the HKS stopper, at least, has three distinct parts, and I'm not sure about the other ones, but I wouldn't do it to my engine.

Over 6000 miles, and I just had a problem. The thermostat gasket somehow was cut through, and it started leaking. I fixed it temporarily, with some permatex, and sealed it good. That's the only problem I've had so far.:icon_bigg

In my case, I just rerouted the vacuum line directly to the valve bypassing the actuator, and all was well. It's the actuator, (or whatever it's called), that's usually the issue. And the mixer door controls the heat just fine. On in the winter, and off in the summer. Been running like that for...

In that case, we didn't actually do the rope part, since we knew that it would work we didn't need to prove it.

It was actually USB cable in our case, and the diameter was about 5 mm.

That would never work, as the airflow would be too strong for the stock AFM's mirrors.

+1 on the stupid. Lets have some compressor blades for lunch, shall we?

Can't say where the connector is, but agree that you should keep TEMS. I love mine.

Which way did you finally go?

Yes, if there's no damage. You have to remove the rivets, and totally clean off all the viton that's on it, and then use Permatex copper spray sealant on every surface. If by some chance the viton is in perfect condition, then you won't have to do anything to it, but I doubt it.

You're kidding, right? You need a quality straight edge, long enough to extend beyond the ends of the block, or head, a set of feeler gauges, and then follow the procedure in the TSRM. Just cleaning the surface is not enough!

Yeah, you really need to read the oil sticky, because with that weight, you are almost starving your bearings at cold start-up, compared to something thinner.

Just a little addendum: Mine is running on GC 0w30 and my pressures are fine and dandy, and I'm never going back to other oils.

Seems like you might have had some really hot oil after the hard run. The oil pump is high volume/low pressure, so as long as you have oil pressure you should be OK. My pressure was about 8-10 psi lower on average in the summer, than it is now.

It's not that hard to do. Don't know why some say it's a bitch, but there are much harder things you can do, than replacing struts, and springs.

Also this quote: "This seems to confuse a lot of people, so here's a quick explanation. Both shocks and struts serve the same purpose, to dampen the vibrations of a mechanical system. The difference is that a strut is an integral part of the suspension whereas a shock is just an add on...

"Shock absorbers" are physically separated from the car's springs. A "strut," on the other hand, is a shock absorber with a spring that fits around it. Struts are common these days because they save space. But they cost more because the springs have to be removed before the "shock absorber" part...

Oh, and keep the tems, they work excellent with Illuminas.

We have struts, and poodles, they are bearing the load. Do you think the spring perches are just for show?