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Cool cartoons! I customize my own by combining and editing those posted before. Thanks guys.

The answer is no. But, the numbers can give you a good idea. However, one cam manufacturer may have developed a more "square" cam profile and another one may have a more "narrow" cam profile. So, the more square cam would spend more time at a higher lift, letting in more air than a narrower...

It's all about the chrome molding on the stock grill.

I have 272/9mm with Exhaust Advanced 4.5* and Intake Retarded 2.5*. I'm not sure if there is a good consensus on adjusting the stock cam gears. Maybe the consensus is to spend your money on more useful things.

I bet that MoTeC helps a lot with getting the idle situated. Are you using the stock Idle Speed Control, or a GM ISC, or what? The stock ECU might not be too good at figuring out the idle with cams that aggressive.

2ZZ-GE, not FE. The F and G heads are of a different design. The M and JZ use the G type heads while the UZ engines use the F type heads. I think it has something to do with the cam angles.

Did you do anything special to get the idle that low? What is the lift on your cams? ALso, what adjustments have you made to your cam timing?

Go online and search for D1 pictures. Email or PM the person and tell them that you like their photo so much that you would like to full resolution picture. Most people are nice.

I think I heard once upon a time that European Supras had such a sensor stock. Don't take my word on it though. Maybe Lange will post up.

solder blue LEDs into your climate control. practice on a junkyard one if you don't have much experience with electronics.

Maybe hold onto it... because you'll be back sooner or later.

not BC, but, for fun.

Exhaust closes sooner, intake opens later. that was my reasoning, I may be incorrect though.

Does this sound correct: To decrease overlap? Advance the Exhaust Cam and Retard the Intake Cam

Great run with nitrous! Nice to see someone making use of it to throw down some fast times.

Theres companies that make adapters so that you don't have to hack your harness. Its $200+ for most of them, but I haven't seen a 7M version so you'd have to pay more than that for a custom one.

you didn't post in the right forum. This shit belongs in http://www.honda-tech.com/

Maybe we should all start talking about backspacing like the Domestic guys.

I've pulled the EFI Fuse and disconnected the battery several times but no luck on it figuring things out. When I unplug the AFM it does not run any better or any worse so I do not think that the AFM is my problem. I had a small leak in the intake manifold but I tightened it up and it went...

Take a look at these two threads, they are both stickied. Dyno Sheet Thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24092 1/4 mile Time Thread: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41973