Search results

different ways to go about it. talk to shawn, that's who i got my stuff from. http://www.supramania.com/forums/member.php?u=4387

birthday cheer ;)

oh sorry, should have clarified. i speaking merely on the aesthetics i.e. "muddin tires" reference. yes the 17" would be taller, but the same look so to speak. of course the width of the rim will play a part in the sidewall shape as well. wait, 28"? doh! i reread and now see op is asking...

yep! the only profile Dr's come in for 16" it's sitting down in a hole hence the "launch mode" lol

i like ether. cleans well, no residue and wont eat paint. however, these days it's harder to get and if you buy it often the atf will come knocking on your door.

i have 255/50 on the rear :dunno:

yeah i dont guess at your power levels the ffim would help much. i havent seen your car in a long time, wow that is gutted! what is your race weight?

instead of changing the ic and intake manifold setup, why not just switch over to aluminum piping? good luck on the project.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104789 cant find one about the durango. of course there are the contour fans as well. they are a dual fan setup.

congrats! lock strange magic in silence? weird lol

yes. 12x1.25 for the return side at the rail and the one you are looking for on the union piece. 14x1.5 for the inlet. it is a common power steering fitting. you may need to trim it down some where it sticks into the rail. on the return side of your regulator you will probably want a hose...

pretty sure ron's boost gauge were the guts of an apexi unit.

it's just a female bullet connector from a terminal set. apparently the price has gone up since i bought mine, but $35 still isn't bad.

i use a n/o switch that threads into the tstat housing where the csi used to be. fs140 from napaonline.com it triggers at 182-189 and was $25 i prefer the tstat housing because i've never been a fan of the probes. another option is get a corolla switch and put it in place of the stock...

i think you are misreading that? i thought he went from not being installed correctly and having 0 to installed correctly and now have compression but low? that's how i read it anyway. glad you figured out the issue, sucks that you seemed to have wrecked some stuff in the process tho :(...

afm or wiring will cause the code 24 (intake air temp sensor). the sensor feeding the gauge should be a small gray single pin connector. pretty sure the wire is yellow with a green stripe. it's the one near the bottom on back side.

stock afm? yes you need to adjust your tps and check the wiring for the 51.

on a budget- taurus or durango fan setup. cheap and effective. and they move a ton of air. no budget- custom shroud with spal fans in between- id look at zirgo or ffd. i have the ultra performance zirgo 12's (no longer available) and they work awesome. plus they have a lifetime...

yeah, just looked that up. not super impressive imo CFM: 933.5 Fan Diameter: 280mm Fan RPM: 2095 Number of Blades :10 Current: ~8A Volts: 12.25V Amps: 5.7 Velocity Ft/Min: 724 Inlet Pressure While Tested: -0.04 Air Temp While Tested: 62.6 (degrees F)

i dont think its a bad price, but not much detail in the pics. i have more than that in my setup.