code 51 you cannot set the timing correctly.
the map you are running now, have you ran before on the car?
have you checked the IDL to E2 when throttle is closed? when it is open?
never had the code 24 with the mpro. when the car comes out of open loop if the 02 is fubar i can imagine...
jay- you may look into a vpc. i've always loved the vpc/afc combo. these days you can pick up a used vpc for $200-250.
nothing wrong w/ the lex afm, but it does limit you to some degree. and for the price, i think it would be worth a look.
good luck w/ the project!
there was a guy a few years back that molded them in the section under the triangle window in front of the back seats. i have pics somewhere of it, but it was posted on here at some point. i can dig them up if you are interested.
congrats again aaron! once we get your boost control figured out and my laptop hooked up we can smooth out your curve better. if you look again at the sheet you can see how power vs afr is very similar. of course the boost fluctations is a big part of the cause. either way, should be able to...
that sucks. sounds like the problem started when you replaced the fans. what fans are they and how do you have them hooked up?
when the voltage is low, have you noticed any of the wiring getting hot?
that is the tps sensor. the tps will trigger the IDL switch letting the ecu know when the throttle plate is closed. if you don't have the tps set right it will not trigger the switch.
if you touch the gas pedal or have the a/c turned on it will cause this code as well.
sounds like you...
right. to run the fuel pump you jumper +b and Fp in the diag block.
try to condense stuff in one thread. you have so many issues going on it's hard to keep track. and some would be helpful info to know as it relates to other things you have going on.
you sure you have the cps in right? it's a little tricky to get lined up right if you haven't done it before.
do you have a timing light?
and no sst required- use a paper clip or piece of wire to jumper E1 and Te1 in the diagnostic block under the hood.
that is still low voltage. pull the big alt fusible link in the fuse box. you will have to pull the bottom off and unbolt it. i had a similar problem and the fusible link was cracked. not all the way blown, so it was working just had a big voltage drop across it.
is your abs light on?>...
oh, its that one. i thought it was one of the ones i mentioned. it did look a little short but those lines haven't been on my car in forever.
sorry bout that. atleast there aren't a bunch of coolant lines on the intake side so shouldnt be hard to track down. looks like GJ got it.
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