lower temp fan switch

S

supraturbotimmy

New Member
Dec 19, 2006
61
0
0
uk
i have had a good look through the site but have been unlucky to find the right details, i currently have my flexalite fans on the stock black square electric fan plugs, this works ok but i had a feeling that the temps that they turn on are a bit on the high side, i do have a manual override wired in but i like the full automatic control, if i have got it right the fans are controlled by the blue plug on the thermostat housing and the air con switch is the one above
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=AC&P=33
thats if i have got it right the temp it will turn on at 212 and off at 203 that seems a lot hotter then i would of liked and thought very bad for my car in the long run, i do not have an aftermarket gauge for coolant temp so i cannot say what temp it currently turns on or off. so is there a replacement switch to lower the turn on temp of my fans? and what do you recommend is the best temp to run at?
 
reydio

reydio

Supramania Contributor
Oct 3, 2008
181
0
16
Pearl City
I got my flexalite being controlled by a variable controller. I'm using this:

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/electric-fan-accessories.html

Part number 31165-VSC
It would turn the fan on at 185 at low speed, as the temperature rises the fan speeds up and max out at 195. When the AC is on, fans will be on at maximum.

Most fans activates between 185-195 degrees. I think the plug you are using is for the AC fan only. I might be wrong though since you did not specify the year of your car.

Your best bet is to use flexalite's temp probe and controller or use another brand, i.e. Spal or Delta Controls:

http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm
 
grimreaper

grimreaper

New Member
Jul 2, 2008
2,180
0
0
Dallas
this is the problem with guys using stock sensors to control aftermarket fans. The stock sensors like the one your using are BACK UPS. THey are designed to kick on the AC fans when temps get higher then "normal". Ive seen several posts with guys using these with out issues with a stock temp guage (DUH!, FAIL in my book but to each his own). Not my idea of control! Kick on at 185 is what i would run depending on the thermostat used and conditions you drive in...

A simple radiator probe can be had for $25-$30 at autozone and it allows for temp control. (same parts as flexlite kits too ;))
 
S

supraturbotimmy

New Member
Dec 19, 2006
61
0
0
uk
sorry its a 1990, i just thought it would great if there was an option for a replacement lower temp switch, i should of mentioned i'm in the uk so i dont have an autozone here.
 
D

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
0
0
indiucky
i use a n/o switch that threads into the tstat housing where the csi used to be.

fs140 from napaonline.com it triggers at 182-189 and was $25

i prefer the tstat housing because i've never been a fan of the probes.

another option is get a corolla switch and put it in place of the stock one with a relay. those are around $70 iirc.
 
D

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
0
0
indiucky
it's just a female bullet connector from a terminal set. apparently the price has gone up since i bought mine, but $35 still isn't bad.
 
cuel

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
1,536
0
0
Baytown, Texas
Yeah, JJ turned me on to it. Another thing. Make sure you use a good, heavy wire running your fans. I'm using stock dual fans off a 98 v-6 Ford Contour with a built in low speed resistor. The stock Ford wiring to them is pretty heavy, around 10 gauge, if I'm not mistaken.

Edit: Oh yeah. In OBDII applications, I can watch the ECT temps(on a scanner), and when the ecu will turn the fan(s) on and off. It's usually well over tstat operating temp. They usually kick on anywhere from 215 to 225(vehicle in park, idling, hood open, a/c off), and kick back off between 198 and 210. I've never seen one that operated under the regulating temp. of the tstat. The only time the fans will turn on under the regulating temp of the tsat is when the a/c high pressure turns them on to cool the condenser.
 
grimreaper

grimreaper

New Member
Jul 2, 2008
2,180
0
0
Dallas
^ not sure what cars that was on but nothing ive owned has had the fans kick on any later then +5* of the thermo... scan tool verified. Our scion tc has a 180 or 185 thermo, never could get it to top 188 in the heat with no ac. With ac it ran just the same actually. Maybe an older car thing? (not the only car ive tested either!)
 
cuel

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
1,536
0
0
Baytown, Texas
No, I work on everything, all year makes and models. Every OBDII(96 to 07) car I've tested under the conditions I stated( in park, idling, a/c off) works in the manner I've described. There are variances, but they all turn the fans on and off over the operating temp of the tstat. Years of testing, every day, all kinds of cars(not just a few, but hundreds of cars). The conditions I use are the hottest a car is going to run. Usually, if its gonna overheat, this is when it happens.

Under driving conditions, the ect will usually stay alot closer to the tstat temp, as it should if the cooling system works correctly.
 
grimreaper

grimreaper

New Member
Jul 2, 2008
2,180
0
0
Dallas
interesting to say the least, the temps you listed can easily be acheived at a light when its 100+ on a daily bases though(tx heat in the summer). Id hate to work on a car for a living, totally ruins the enjoyment for me.
 
cuel

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
1,536
0
0
Baytown, Texas
Very true about the temps here. Idling is just plain hard on a car. If the cooling system is working correctly, even in the summer here it takes around 15 min. between fan cycles.

You really have to enjoy working on cars to do it for a living; not to say it doesn't suck at times...

OP: I have mine set-up to turn on around 205 at the tstat, and back off around 195. The head at cyl. 6 is typically about 10 degrees hotter than the front when testing with temp probes(I.R. and a digital probe).
 
grimreaper

grimreaper

New Member
Jul 2, 2008
2,180
0
0
Dallas
Indications of a working clutch:

1) Clutch should have resistance to turning. It should stop in less than one rev when spun hard when cold.

2) It should engage when the engine is started and then smoothly quiet down as the rpm is brought up to 2000 and held there. If you're under florescent lights you'll be able to see this happen. A timing light can also be used.

Testing:

1) Insert longish temperature probe between radiator and shroud so as to measure temp ear clutch bimetallic coil.

2) With engine at hot idle block airflow through radiator.

3) Clutch should begin to engage at about 170 F and be fully engaged by 200 F.
4) Unblock radiator. Clutch should be begin to disengage at about 190 F and be fully disengaged by 165 F.

If it doesn't work (and assuming the bearing is still good) split the case and refill with 50cc of 3000 centistoke silicone oil from the local hobby shop or buy a new one....
Click to expand...

for the 7m, id still mimic the stock cltuch fan operation.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom