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i would just like to have a lightweight fiberglass hood that fits well and cost effective. having a raised cowl is just a bonus to me.

that looks awesome kevin! that is exactly what i was talking about! i don't care either way, if the price is affordable, fitment is good then that's all i need to know!

yep. i found on my car about 2* positive camber works well. i prefer the 3.73 gears, but i dont turn as high as you do. sean turns 7200 or so in his and the 3.91 works well. you may also consider using height adj bilstein shocks with stock springs. is a pretty good combo for...

i like it. i'm not crazy about how tall it is in the front. i'd prefer it to be near stock height around the headlight area. then a smooth increase to full height in the rear. if that makes any sense. and if i remember correctly, you will make these in fg as well?

sean's car is yellow, and he has black mirrors and a black hood. i think it looks good. it was an idea he had after seeing one of the pennzoil race cars (skyline i think)

you're welcome. hope it works out for you. as far as the ign, i don't like to tap into the efi. i usually use the radio fuse or the heavy ign wiring under the steering wheel. i don't have my diagrams handy to point it out, but it's the same wire that you hook into if using a turbo timer...

ok you may look into this: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=641/category_id=403/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd641.htm then get one of these sensors...

well i figured that lol so it's a clear coat with a satin like finish, gotcha.

i really am trying to help. but you are going to have to put forth some effort here. a switch: goes into the coolant stream. at a certain temp it will turn the fans on and off a controller: a stand alone unit that you can program the on and off temp the fans come on. you can set it up...

you need to decide how you want to wire it. do you want a switch or do you want a controller?

good looking car. what exactly does a flat clear coat look like?

yeah he was rolling like 3rd gear at 60 mph. was a bit on the loud side. with the tt i thought it may be a 1j, but who knows.

the fan sensor switch you are talking about is for the a/c aux fan. dont use it. i'm never a fan of a probe jammed into the radiator fins. i'd use a thermo switch in the tstat housing itself. then wire that to a relay to power the fan(s). if you wanted to get fancy you could get one of...

i was on 264 yesterday and saw a mk3 that i haven't seen before. it was a black 89/90 with black sawblades. lisc plate was mk3tt or something. he had jeff county plates so he's local. anyone know who he is?

i'm starting back on my car. looks like i have about 3 months. of course i will be there either way.

i solder a lot by trade. i have the hakko 936 like someone else, the digital 937 and for field work i have the master ulta. good quality solder is key also. i usually use kester or multicore 60. be sure you are using the right gauge for the job.

they are a little more difficult on the auto because of the tranny cooler hard lines. does toyota still produce the krystal oil filters?

if you want to screw the oil press sensor into the stock location, you will need to use an adapter. it adapts the stock 1/8x28 (bspt) to the common 1/8x27 (npt) thread. some people just screw the aftermarket right in, but it cross threads slightly. the autometer p/n is 2269 and around $8 or...

is that outside danville? i wired and setup an in-motion checkweigher at RR Donnelley not long ago. if so, thats about 2hrs southeast of me. yes, you can tune with the afpr alone. however, you can only move the entire curve up or down. you cannot fine tune per rpm band like you can with...

i always use an afpr. i tune to get the a/f flat with the afc, then adjust the entire fuel curve with fuel pressure. another good thing about using the afpr, it will not effect timing like an afc will. hey and you are in bardstown?