Search results

wow mccc! havent heard mention of that stuff in forever. i had a pinging issue with my old motor due to carbon build up. i used the mccc after a few recommendations from a couple dsm guys. what i did was suck some thru a vac line and let some burn off. then pulled the plugs and poured it...

thank you for not making the dyno at the crack of dawn

i've always used the parker fittings. they don't looks as cool as the alum ones, but damn you put a line on their barb and you pretty well have to cut it off.

i've seen it happen where the cps bolts werent torqued and the cps moved. it caused the ignition timing to be seriously retarded and cause some issues. that wouldnt explain the "quick cranking" tho. can't believe you'd jump right the fuel pump. that seems like a lot of hassle without...

yes, there is a notch silk screened on the pcb to index the chip. i'll double check it again just to be sure. the chip is just firmware from what i understand. i dont see if you put it in backwards it would fry anything. it just inputs and outputs, not like a regulator or anything that it...

usually if i suspect an accessory, i'll start pulling belts to see if the noise goes away. i've seen water pumps make all sorts of noises. don't let it run very long with the belt off tho! with some hard launches, i could see maybe the stock crank pulley seperating, especially if it's old...

yep, chip is indexed properly. i was also careful not to handle the pins so it wouldn't get damaged by any static. all pins are straight and seated correctly in the socket. if i don't get any responses, in a last ditch effort i'll try to pull the vpc out enough to swap over the 550 chip.

you want to run as large of a spark gap as possible without blowing out spark. i always run coppers. platinum isn't as good of a conductor, but last a hell of a lot longer. which is why most oem plugs are platinum. only plugs i've had any real issue with are bosch. i prefer the ngk...

just hooked up a vpc on an sc300. it is using a mk3 440cc chip and wired in with an afc. when you turn the key on, only the red led in the corner lights up. none of the knobs light up at all. when you start the car, it runs really rough and searches for idle. looked at the kv input at the...

thanks for the reply kevin. still a bit confused, but i'm a slow kid. you can pre-register, then out of that group a team is selected. what about the people that register but not picked as part of the team? can they still participate in the full event, but doesn't count towards the...

kevin, i appreciate you coming on here. helping organize some small local events around here, i know how hard it is. i had a good time last year, in fact i think that was the last meet my supra made it to lol. that being said, i think what supraman was referring to has been over the past...

stinger is by far the best bang for the buck. however, not everyone can go wire it up, set a base map and go. then tune fuel and spark tables. you can damage stuff in a hurry if you arent careful. with the maftpro, while quite limited in regards to a full standalone, atleast you have the...

a what? the only thing transmission related from hks i remember was the alc. do you have the proper name and/or pics?

very few of these.

it is in the main fuse box under the hood. it's a monster 100 amp fuse, listed as "alt" on the fuse cover. it doesn't pull out, you have to unbolt it from the bottom. interesting about the cruise and driving lights, i'm gonna look at the diagrams. edit: i also see there is an abs...

i wouldn't powdercoat the comp housing. with heat that start to look like crap. i'd either polish it or ceramic coat it.

it was someone else posting under my name. i think maybe the 2nd pic didn't load. i see it, um, i mean he sees it now.

i am by no means an expert on the subject, but the two times i had the same problem it ended up being a hairline crack in the alt fusible link. on another one of my cars the abs light came on about 2 weeks before the alternator crapped out. seems the abs system is very voltage sensitive.

if you decide to go with a line lock, i like the biondo. it is cheap and works well. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SBR-LL/ installed:

maybe it's late and i'm tired, but: i see the increase down low. i realize you backed out of the run, but looks like you are loosing power above 4200ish rpm? maybe i'm not reading that right. also, the top end looks a little rough, esp for 5 smoothing. thanks for posting test results!