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The problem with aluminum is that in the beginning suprasport made the traction arms in ALUMINUM. And people BENT them, so they switched to stainless steel... and have never had an issue. i think the cars you talk about are all sub 3000lbs cars that normally get gutted... ae86's, s13/14's...

I could easily drop my cat and weld a bung in a matter of minutes... i made my own catback... so the welding isnt an issue, and i can get the bung for like $3 at the local exhaust shop... i think i'll try it out, and if i do notice issues i'll switch back. mkiiiman089 - so why do you use...

And since i know your a electronics guru... could i just tap the wire into the stock ox signal and not have to cut it? and just unplug the stock o2 sensor?

do you own the zt-2 kit?...

the zeitronix sends out a 0-1v signal... which is why i was thinking of this... heres the pdf about the kit... if you scroll down to the section you can see just how this kit works. http://www.zeitronix.com/installation/ZT2instructions.pdf and the only reason why i dont just weld in a...

i have a zeitronix kit that im installing right now... and i dont want to just monitor the a/f, i also want to splice the zeitronix into the ecu so it uses the scaling from the zeitronix for the stock o2... but which wire should i cut and connect it to? its a 90 supra, so the wiring im...

vht engine enamel is some pretty tough shit. for turbos and stuff, vht flame proof.

those are the traction arms... not the camber arms, why would you need to adjust the traction arms? wouldnt that just change the caster? im more worried about camber than anything, especially if im really low.

i coudnt even get my car aligned because the previous owner had all of the tabs either broken, or flattened... so it was pointless for me. the fronts werent that bad when i dropped my n/a, the rears had more than the front. but even driving the car with that much camber was fun to me. And i...

wtf were you using 15w40 for in the 7m???? and why did you use royal purple to break in a motor??? you obvisouly didnt talk to your machinist about breaking in the motor...

they just do... if you didnt want to be lowered 2'' then you should have bought some other springs like eibach's... the h&R only have the RACE style spring and yes you can get it back into alignment with aftermarket camber arms... a1 makes some and so does "battle version"... he sells through...

its a big nipple that comes off of the metal "web" of tubes on the side of the manifold... its underneath and points down. just shove your hand in there and you should feel an empty nipple. right below the part number 17344d, theres an empty hose... THATS the one...

get a pic of the pistons... and if you need a set of sawblades you can buy mine. i got new rims. where you at in Ca? norcal or socal?

I think it would be worth more with a good condition 1jz... im all for a 1jz+r154 in that car. its beautiful and with some tasteful mods, it would be fast, look nice, and not be ricer!

if you go WOT, you shouldnt hear the wastegate UNTIL you get to 13psi... if it starts to open at 1-2psi at WOT then you have a bad wastegate... and i said WOT, not part throttle boosting or half throttle boosting, cause that normally doesnt fully spool the turbo. and i have a BIC DDP and...

if your car is going to be kept in storage and not driven much during the year, TELL THE INSURANCE, we have a car sitting in my garage under my moms name, and its less than $30 a month for it... its a special kind of insurace for cars that basically just sit. talk to an insurance agent and...

Probes are basically a high performance pistons without the name... go compare the probe pistons specs and pictures to the pistons that titan has specially made for them, and you'll be suprised that they look identical... the probes even have the "detonation grooves" in the top part of the upper...

this is what tire rack had to say... http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=1 i've always hated tires that were on 40psi+ cause it made the car ride like crap... as soon as i lowered it down to the suggested door sticker levels, the car returned to what it was...

hopefully that $70 doesnt turn into an expensive job... do you have any way of jacking it up and inspecting everything pre-alignment? just so you have an idea of what shape everything is in?

i go by whats on the inside of the door... sometimes even a 2-3psi lower... and stock tire size is 225/50/16... not 205's.