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For starters you need to check codes....you also need to do a boost leak test... Check codes and get back to us!

It should be fine....many people run ct-26's without coolant as today's oils don't coke "burn and turn to carbon deposits" like it used to 20-30 years ago.

If the afm is unpluged he won't rev high enough to build boost. Check codes.

^no did they reinstall all your oil squirters?

An fcd is like walking on thin ice....one must be very careful and have the car dyno tuned to make sure it's alright.

No problem!

Oops....and a higher flowing fuel pump such as a walbro 255(sp) all 4!

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator....Wideband o2 guage....fuel controler (safc or whatever).

That will do it!....now pull your thermostat and make sure it doesn't have silicone particles around it also!!!! Hope my pics helped you!?

No it can't "go bad"....it's how it's supposed to work but you're supposed to plug it before testing or else you'll pump compressed air into your block which is badnews bears! I'm horrid at explaining the science behind things but it is supposed to work this way. Get a rubber cap to fit over...

So you swaped just the transmission or the motor and all? Your post makes little sense...reword it with more detail please code 12 is RPM signal which is either your cps (turbo) or distributor (na) rpm signal wire is messed up.....43 is starter signal which I can't explain what will happen...

Word! Thank god

Lmao....silly man you're suppose to cap that off before boost leak testing! Ofcourse it's a boost leak...look how the system is designed...it's a control'd boost leak when it's all plumbed up correctly behind the afm. I sure as fuck hope you didn't pump much air in your system cause what...

So in otherwords...it's not a huge deal as either way with or without the guage hooked up the ecu will still adjust idle per water temps and electrical loads.... Although it's no excuse...I know many many people who have removed it with zero effects on coldstart idle speeds etc... My...

The ecu reads oil pressure threw the stock pressure sender....but what does the ecu read and do with it? Is it a big deal to not use the stock sender?

Yeah you shouldn't get boost codes unless you fuel cut...which you probably will with the new turbo lol. It should be fine but get the car dyno tuned!

Yeah I don't know how you'll do it with the engine in the car....you did get a lemon "it's a 20 year old sports car, what you expect?" lol

Your rear hatch latch probably needs adjusting+new hatch bumpers.

Do not put sealer in your cooling system...suprized such products are legal! Anyway...the only way to fix the problem is to pop out the freeze plug and install a new one:-)

The access panel is so you can unplug the pump and the fuel level thing lol...you must get under the car and unhook fuel lines "3" in total....drop the tank and remove pump. Remove the gas cap and unscrew the shroud around the gas cap before you do this.