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Thanks for clearing that up, lesson learned is to not trust all information that comes from certain websites.

I don't know if this counts or not but I got the original owners license plate from Japan when I got my car. I think its pretty cool.

Since you have a JZA70 your car comes from factory with a Torsen rear dif. These are known to not withstand the "shock" that hard launches place on the rear end. Some have launched there cars countless times and the dif holds up fine and it shatters on others. Either way the USDM LSD is superior...

Calgary has a shop that is an HKS dealer and is licensed to tune the V-Pro.

I have a 1991 JZA70 Supra and my rear seats do not have shoulder belts. I am assuming that the C-Pillar will not work in my car? Anyone have closeup pictures on where exactly it is mounted?

Well unless you have your heart set on a MK3. You might be better off looking for a MK4 supra. The price of the swap, fabrication, paint and interior would be close to the price of a MK4.

Just because the caps "look" fine does not mean they are still good. Try borrowing a friends ECU or play it safe and send it to Driftmotion to get the caps replaced.

Also open up your ECU and check for leaking capacitors.

Ecu, Ignitor or the wiring between the 2. Can you borrow an ECU from a friend?

I only ordered the parts as a safeguard so to speak. I am bringing the ECU down to my friend this week for him to have a look at it but if I feel it won't get done right I will send it to Aaron. Thanks for the help again, Steve

Thanks for the help guys, I got everything I need all ordered. Also I am getting a local electronics shop to put them in for me.

Radioshack closed down in Canada.

I am looking to replace the capacitors for my 1JZ ECU and was wondering if there are any online sites that sell the values I need. I believe these are the values I need. Correct me if I am wrong. 15uF 35V 47uF 63V 33uF 35V 100uF 10V 220uF 10V Thanks, Steve

Looking at getting some Hella Ecodes and was wondering which bulb you guys recommend? I will be doing the lighting mod as well. Thanks, Steve

Don't worry man I am sure you will figure it out. Hell I have been trying the past 3 weeks and still no success. I have the exact same problem as you and I got the code 14. Swapped Ecu's, ignitors and have fuel and spark. The car just stopped working one day. Hopefully we both figure it out...

Stock FP is 42-43 psi. Steve

I would start by checking the IGF wire that goes from the ignitor to the ECU. Also have you confirmed that you have spark? Code 14 could either be bad ignitor, ecu or the wiring. Steve

The first cam sensor is right on top of the fuel fuel near the middle/front of the engine. Has a connector with 2 wires sticking out of it. Steve

In the same situation as you man. My car was working great then just decided to stop working. Will start for a split second then die. Throwing the dreadful code 14 too. Tried a friends ECU(not sure if it works because he is still in the swapping process) and a different igniter and have both...

I searched through the other threads and didn't find exactly what I needed. Anyways I was driving my car last fall and all of a sudden it just stopped running and wouldn't start back up so I parked it for the winter. Last week I tried starting it again and it will only crank over but it won't...