I just got finished wiring my 1jz into a s13, and of coarse it won't start. I searched these forums up and down for hours looking for clues as to what it could it be. I found some good info that helped a little bit, but still, no go. At first it would just crank and do nothing, I mean NOTHING. Then I found that there needs to be a 12v signal during ignition on the igsw pin of a soarer ecu. I got that all corrected and got the ecu to finally turn on and control the fuel pump. Still no start though, just cranking. Then I found that I had forgotton to hook up the 12v positve power feed to the coils and injectors. Now I have cranking and sputtering. It smells a bit like gas and my garage fills up with exhaust pretty quick, but it still just won't run. Does anyone know off hand if I overlooked some other wire that needs to be hooked up on a soarer wiring harness? It was quite the pita trying to read those japanese soarer schematics and interface them to the s13 but I got this far, it has to be something minor. I hope. If you know of anything that needs to be powered up through a different connector than the ones on the ECU then I may have missed it. The codes I have pulled are 14 (IGF) go figure, and 24 (air temp).
1jz cranks and sputters, won't start.
- Thread starter Viggs
- Start date
how long did you crank? mine sputtered when i first started my 2jz and i thought something was wrong but there wasnt. every time i disconnect the battery it takes a couple of seconds to crank - every other time, even if it sits it fires right up
my 1jz starts and it idles fine but sputters on rev-up ???
i think it's the fuel pressure ??? maybe
i have twin walbro pumps in tank where do i set pressure on the fpr 35 psi is not right
before i had factory LOOKING injectors but not for this engine there red idles high and rev's hard there to much fuel with the white smoke so i got the stock yellow injectors now idles fine but sputters with no smoke
yes i reset the ecu nothing
o by the way at first i had the very same problem would not start check the E.F.I. fuse under the hood mine kept blowing because of the twin pumps
i think it's the fuel pressure ??? maybe
i have twin walbro pumps in tank where do i set pressure on the fpr 35 psi is not right
before i had factory LOOKING injectors but not for this engine there red idles high and rev's hard there to much fuel with the white smoke so i got the stock yellow injectors now idles fine but sputters with no smoke
yes i reset the ecu nothing
o by the way at first i had the very same problem would not start check the E.F.I. fuse under the hood mine kept blowing because of the twin pumps
I would start by checking the IGF wire that goes from the ignitor to the ECU. Also have you confirmed that you have spark? Code 14 could either be bad ignitor, ecu or the wiring.
Steve
Steve
ok i will try changeing the plugs
but what about fuel pressure ??? should i be at 35psi at the fpr
with twin pumps in the tank (walbro 255)
but what about fuel pressure ??? should i be at 35psi at the fpr
with twin pumps in the tank (walbro 255)
Okay I checked the IGF wire at the ecu with an oscilloscope, I have a square wave pulsing from 0 to 12v. Does that sound correct to any of you? Also I checked the crank sensor wiring at the ecu, that has a pulsing sine wave. Its not random pulsing either, perfect pattern. So my thought is that the spark plugs and injectors are being activated at the wrong time? What would cause that? Or why would my ecu throw out a code 14, if I do indeed have the IGF signal? Let me try to sound this out for you guys. When I say crank here, I mean the engine is turning over with no other sounds going on.....crank crank crank sputter crank crank crank sputter sputter sputter sputter then it just cranks for a few seconds with no sputtering at all. Then repeats.
when you did the swap did you change the fuel pump ?
are getting enough fuel pressure (fpr guage)???
is there spark???
did you check all the fuses ???
are getting enough fuel pressure (fpr guage)???
is there spark???
did you check all the fuses ???
I don't know if this will help anyone with what could be wrong, but now when i try to start it doesnt just crank its a constant sputter now. The sputtering sounds like a pop pop pop pop pop pop then the starter almost stalls like the engine gets tough to turn. Then its back to popping.
Don't worry man I am sure you will figure it out. Hell I have been trying the past 3 weeks and still no success. I have the exact same problem as you and I got the code 14. Swapped Ecu's, ignitors and have fuel and spark. The car just stopped working one day. Hopefully we both figure it out.
Also mine does the same thing, just pop pop pop and it wants to start but like you said it gets tough so you stop cranking. Then when you turn the key the pops come back.
Steve
Also mine does the same thing, just pop pop pop and it wants to start but like you said it gets tough so you stop cranking. Then when you turn the key the pops come back.
Steve
updates? i too am having similar issues (1jz in 240) but think its fuel related. car runs, but only on 2 cylinders...as in it actually starts up and idles somewhat (blub blub sound)
- fuel pump has 12V mod and i am getting about 40psi of fuel pressure
- 4 injectors are not firing (at first it was only 3, but one decided to quit i guess)
- i am getting VERY strong spark on all plugs
- i can smell fuel in the two cylinders that work (1&6)
however, i have continuity to ground on my power wires for the injectors...weird?
i should also note that i have an MKIII resistor wired in for the MKIV 550's. i am seeing continuity to ground on the resistor power wire (black/orange) as well (i have verified that the resistor wiring is done properly)
would this cause a misque on the 3 or 4 injectors i.e., they wont fire correctly...?
just seeing what/who is out there...
brett
- fuel pump has 12V mod and i am getting about 40psi of fuel pressure
- 4 injectors are not firing (at first it was only 3, but one decided to quit i guess)
- i am getting VERY strong spark on all plugs
- i can smell fuel in the two cylinders that work (1&6)
however, i have continuity to ground on my power wires for the injectors...weird?
i should also note that i have an MKIII resistor wired in for the MKIV 550's. i am seeing continuity to ground on the resistor power wire (black/orange) as well (i have verified that the resistor wiring is done properly)
would this cause a misque on the 3 or 4 injectors i.e., they wont fire correctly...?
just seeing what/who is out there...
brett
Hmm... have you checked the compression? easy to do... worse case is a huge hole in your piston. happened with my Z. 