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Deal. I'll put the battery in tonight. :p

Absolutely.

Actually, changing the seals isn't a difficult task. Buy some soft rope, pull the valve covers, and spark plugs, feed rope in through spark plug hole, rotate engine by hand until rope presses up on bottom of valves, remove cams, buckets, and shims on cylinder you are working on, press down on...

Hmm... not sure how it works there, here Ophthalmologists choose to be either surgical / treatment oriented, or run a practice very similar to an Optometrist. Mine does my annual eye checkups and provides corrective lenses, but anything invasive gets referred to another Dr. who specializes in...

Even if it is, it's still measuring an average across all 6 cylinders. Something clearly got far too hot in there - overboost might cause that, but in such a short time period? On JE pistons that have been coated? Sounds fishy. Blue windshield washer fluid? Sounds like a weak link to me...

Nope... but the only advantage it has over my 2J car is air conditioning, and around here that's really not a big deal. I drove it for years without any concerns - all over the place, from Alaska to Nevada, before I bought the 2J car.

It's a fairly picky part, and without a CT26 exhaust housing to test fit 'em to, chances are they'd get it wrong.

If they weren't more common that dirt, he'd have a point... the price for these from the dealership is beyond ridiculous. Yep. I've got a couple sets I'd give away, and I've already given a couple sets away for nothing!

The MAFT Pro unit will allow you to adjust it, however, without a wideband, it's entirely guessing about how much effect it has. You have two choices there, take it to a shop for tuning and they'll plug in their own wideband, or buy your own and mount it permanently in the car.

Sounds like valve stem seals to me... fixed similar problems on my car, anyway.

About the Ophthalmology option... I've had bad vision since I was a kid. I've dealt with, literally, dozens of eye care professionals. In 35 years of this, I've only found ONE guy who consistently knew his shit, and didn't piss me off. Good Ophthalmologists are DAMN hard to find. Common...

Should be a hole in the center of the broken fitting... some penetrating oil and an easy out should pull it out pretty easily. Likely won't chew it up much, either, so less cleanup. Also, keep in mind there are at least two different threads for the oil sending unit. Make sure the one you are...

Check that the TDC mark on the front main pulley is still aligned with actual TDC... pull the #1 spark plug, insert chop stick into hole, rotate engine by hand until chop stick is at the top of the stroke, check mark on front main pulley is lined up with zero degrees on the timing belt cover.

Yes, and they can be ordered from half a dozen vendors... ARZ being my preferred one.

I've found that two things usually cause mine to stop working. 1. That damn wire you mentioned keeps coming loose... usually when I'm putting the interior back in. 2. For some reason, I forget to connect the other plug. Mine has never been dead due to a fuse or wiring problems.

Doesn't sound like a problem to me... I learned to drive a bloody big 4WD International Harvester van sitting on my dad's knee at ... I'm guessing age 6. Long time ago, and all that, not exactly the sharpest memory anymore. Of course, this was out in the bush on gravel roads, without another...

http://www.explosm.net/comics

I have one of those. I don't drive it anymore, though...

Nice! Not an expensive lesson learned, either, except in time spent.

Code 11 is interrupted power to the ECU. Check that the grounds at the rear bottom of the intake manifold are connected and in good shape.