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I think Brad has an extra head, or will shortly...

Attempting to repair a high pressure oil galley in a cast iron block with JB weld is only going to end in tears.

I've always wondered what the "Georgia Peach" means... Not enough to look it up on the internet though, yes, I'm lazy. Furthermore, I've only head it a few times, certainly less than I can count using my fingers. ;) I guess being on the other side of the continent and in a different country...

Putting what back in? The leather cover? Or putting the shift knob back on the gearshift? The leather won't be going back in, regardless. The knob itself will screw back down to the stick just fine.

Just got home... still full of yummy RR Fahitas. Gained some filtered water and gum, too, thanks Don! ;)

Huh? Link works just fine... I just tested it... If you're having problems getting it through the web, send me an email - david.stewart@shaw.ca - and I'll email you a copy.

Hopefully this means no FRONT timing cover, and the rear is actually on there and properly machined. Doesn't look like they used a new heater union bolt on the back of the head, or a new 3rd engine cover either, both of which I'd expect for $4k.

Better to take off the passenger door panel, read the lock code off the key cylinder, take that and your registration to a local Toyota dealer and get them to cut you a new key.

For sure Bill will have a connector that works as long as you're willing to do both ends.

True enough... I was thinking they must be unavailable if he's having such a problem getting them. Pretty sure they are on this page: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291420/catalog.aspx?F=3502&P=1 Part number 90109-10037 ~$3 each from a good Toyota parts department, probably 4 times...

Bunch of places sell those... try George at Raptor Racing.

First, you can unwrap the shifter without any concerns, it's just rubber underneath, the leather is held on with what looks like contact cement, it cleans up easily. Second, there's a lot of cars out there with more than 1" drop. Admittedly it does depend on your wheels and tires to a certain...

In a pinch, you should be able to get something suitable from any specialty fastener shop... or, for that matter, get something machined. It's only 6 bolts, it's not going to break the bank either way. All you need to know is the size, thread pitch, and length.

Hmm... bit of a longshot, but if you talk to Bill at ISS in Langley, he might be able to get 'em if he doesn't already.

We're getting together because Jayhall is only in town for a few days - he'll be gone again before the weekend.

The problem is it adds turbulence to the flow, and that causes it to flow significantly less.

Other things that commonly sound like rod knock are loose flywheel / flexplate bolts and loose front main damper pulley.

Good point! I did the valve shims at the same time, which needed the cams back in to measure, but if you don't need to adjust anything it would be much faster.

Talk to Rich from SIP, he's a member here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/member.php?2386-suprarich He has tons of experience shipping all over the world, and seems to have a very good parts selection available.

Go buy an aftermarket 3 wire screw in O2 sensor.