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Another possibly culprit - I realize you're solved now, but for the sake of future searches - if you've repainted your engine bay, remember to scrub the paint back down to clean steel where the alternator ground cable connects.

From the nozzle to the head? The vibration insulators? Get 'em from Toyota, they are only $2 each. Part number 23291-41010. The O-rings are about the same, $2 each, part number 90301-07001. Same with the upper grommet, too, $2 each, part number 90480-13005.

I've had the plug on the hatch side near the hinge go. Open the hatch, pull the hatch side rubber housing out, then wriggle the harness out until you can see the plug. Mine was obvious - badly burned, all brown and ugly. Disconnecting the plug was near impossible. If you have a partial short...

^This. Time for new electronics.... if anyone is local to you, see if you can borrow their AFM for long enough to verify it's really the problem.

Wait, you cleaned the AFM? Describe exactly how you did that, as well. Taking the piping off and visually inspecting it isn't the way to do it. Pressurize the intake tract and listen for leaks. There is a thread here that describes how, it's not difficult by any stretch. The electronics are...

Oh... wait...

How about you describe exactly how you checked for leaks.

Well, if nothing else, it makes me feel a whole lot more confident about the crashworthiness of our cars. How long did they beat on that and STILL didn't manage to cause any serious damage to the interior cabin? If I were sitting in it while they were trying to beat it up, the worst thing that...

The system is designed to let you limp to a shop if the AFM dies, thus the reason why it still runs, albeit badly, with it disconnected. Have you done anything to the AFM? Like possibly clean it?

Nothing in Richmond, either.

Heated seats are really quite simple to add. It's a simple layer that goes between the cushion and the upholstery... the biggest pain is pulling off the original upholstery, and even that's not hard with an industrial set of side cutters. Then you need a bunch of hogrings and a set of hogring...

Nothing in Burnaby. Wife's in Richmond, sent her a message but she's at lunch.

If you're doing it in Van, lmk. I'll drive as long as you agree not to get so drunk you try to take apart the car on the ride home.

The CT is smaller than the Garrett on the GNs by a bit... the inducer on the CT is 46mm, on the Garrett it is 48mm. There was also a Porsche turbo that was pretty damn big.

That's their now-discontinued CT bolt-on, next to a 60 trim upgraded CT26. Definitely smaller than the one you have, although the intake size looks very similar.

That last one looks familiar...

Doesn't matter that I can think of... the wiring harness doesn't connect to the head at all, and on the block the only things are the oil pressure sending unit and the knock sensors, all of which use the same connectors for all years IIRC.

Sure... 'Bolt': 90401-22004, $4.63 Washers: 90430-22008, $1.18 Banjo pipe: 90405-17005, $7.93

Added.

Only if there was a girl involved... ;)