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Amazing how small the 1jz one are.

Iv always broke my pulleys loose with the socket and a breaker bar and BAM with a hammer no ill effects.

Did you check for any hoses that were broken or fell off? When you start the car does it take a lot of time to start or is it a quick start? You could drain your oil if it did indeed blow into the oil hole and see if there is in the oil.Check your coolant for oil, or milky substance, and also...

Like MK3 stated, fuel is good, but not enough pressure won't do anything. Also you said you did the 1JZ swap, the car you put it into how long was it sitting? I did a swap, and the car had no fuel in the tank for years and the FP was toast.

The 1JZ performs reliability wise great. yes the ECU they always end up going, but you don't get a 350.00 bell housing a 250.00 flywheel, nor a cltuch, nor a good transmission will lowerish miles. The 2JZ is nice, but I really like having all those parts right from the get go. From what I...

I would look into vac lines, and make sure your map sensor is good.

I do more of the actual swap parts. I don't take ECU's out and check to see if the motor starts, I thought you may go into those details, but I don't waste time with useless posts either.

Ahh, I see. I know that the starter circuit just opens the relay in the engine bay directing power from the battery to the starter, and the solenoid from the engine harness.

The good news is for 2200.00 you can get a 1jz with a R154 attached, a wiring harness ecu, map sensor, and engine mounts. Also if you do this you can get the 1jz in and if you want to upgrade to a 2JZ later on you can, it will go right in. I am currently in the process of Swapping a 1JZ into my...

So if you pull your ECU out you can still crank over the motor? I have never tried this but I thought there was a start circuit for power to run to certain parts in the ecu and then power crank sensors and stuff a start switch.. Anyhow I am curious.

Normal when you put throttle on it no, cold start oil pressure is at around 41 I thought, I may be incorrect, but I know they have higher pressure then the 7M.

I didn't have a problem with mine, but what I did have an issue with that the steel braided cltuch line. I had to crank on that on the master cylinder to get it to not leak, I was scared but it worked perfectly!

If you need an help with the 1jz swap, PM me, i have done two now and have a write up of parts you will need to make it work.

Awesome car good job on it!

Get pics

Yeah well I only drive the car around here in summer, the brakes have no rust etc, so it's good to just put the E-brake on a little. if I am on a hill I do use the gear as well as the E-brake though. Thanks for the info guys, I hope if anyone has any other documentation or life experiences they...

That is good info, thanks for sharing. A huge reason why people's thrust washers wear fast too is because heavy duty pressure plates, + hard driving is not the greatest on Stock OEM washers, nor is is that great on aftermarket ones. Eventually they'll give out. Anther 7M down sadly. I guess...

Yes I can see that. I never park my car in gear, i just hate it. Then again I do see where you're going with this, if there was a fail safe on the transmission that would not let you bypass it until it was in "N"

Why don't they add what I have here? I just tested it and it works awesome. Your folks can have their car in gear, all they have to do is put the shifter into neutral, and put a switch liek I have and hold that turn the key, I like the idea because it is fail safe.

Good to hear, is there any proof that this helps thrust washers? I am not questioning your knowledge it is just information coming from a forum and be misleading and I would just like further proof of articles. Any write ups or anything, I have people of importance I guess you could say that...