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you shouldnt do just the lex AFM by itself, if you do it you should also go with 550's, not saying its never been done, just most people wouldnt do it. Plus you dont have any sort of tuning device listed, so you wouldnt be able to tune it correctly.

ok, not meaning to thread jack, but concitering this threads topic what ballpark range am I looking at with running a fresh ct26, walbro fuel pump, FFIM, FMIC, 2.5" hard pipes, q45 throttle body, Aeromotive AFPR, 3" elbow, 3" HKS ceramic coated DP, and a 3" exhaust with no cat, MSD wires ,Greddy...

when ive installed them Ive never had to hit them with a hammer, they normally go in pretty smooth for the most part. sorry, thats all the help ive got for you at this point.

ok, just getting my wire harness ready, by rewraping it and looming it although I need some help identifying some of the loose wires. In the first pic its the soild brown about 18gage, the clear one next to it. This one there is a small clear right in the ECU plug area This one is the two...

lol mine doesnt have the delay for the downshift... semi-auto contoller with shimmed valve bodies FTW:biglaugh:

I would say stick with the CT, as Grim said, when you add in the cost of a custom downpipe, oil lines, etc. thats going to add a good chunk of change to the price. Plus, with getting the CT trim upgraded by a known and trustable source you KNOW its going to work well. With the ebay setup you...

ok, thats what I thought ( I had this argument with a local MKIII owner) I told him that im reducing back to 2.5 piping after the TB because I dont need anything bigger right now, its just there when I need it. And he insisted that I need at least a AFPR and maybe a SAFC even when reducing it...

anyone?

ok, I just skimmed through this thread but when I had my NA motor in this is what I had done to it OBX headers 2.5 exhaust and no cat MSD ign ARP head bolts Fresh HG Intake including piping plugs and wires port and polished intake manifold walbro fuel pump with J-tube delete 99% of the stock...

Ok, Heres the senario. Im finnishing up my mild build and one of my buddies who enjoys making parts for me (while he on the clock at work) lol is fabbing me up a FFIM for practically nothing, so of course I didnt turn down the offer. Im having him flange it for a Q45 TB even though im still on...

ok, thats what I thought, I just wanted to be 100% sure before I put the motor in thanks guys

anyone?

lol... I know, I need to be smart and next time I run across the Wix just buy several and stock up on them....and besides that was on my NA motor...the new one thats going in right now will only get the best ;)

yea, I've read that before, wix is my #1 choice still, i settle for K&N when I cant get a wix. Wix filters are hard to find in my area.

yes they do have them at pepboys.....I work there :3d_frown: ....but in my opinion Wix and K&N are the best

anyone have any other opinions?? I just want to be 100% sure so I dont havet to take this apart after its all in

Im finishing up my swap/ mild build. now putting the new tranny on the motor, and what I want to know is about the washer like disc that are between the crank and the flywheel, and the one between the flywheel and the bolts. are they both nessacary? I was reading in a previous thead that...

woops, sorry I was talking mm. should have stated that...but as long as im in those clearences I should be ok with standards, correct? (sorry, never done bearings before)

Ok, I know this has been covered countless times, and yes I have read about every thread I could find but just want a little reasureance. When replacing rod and main bearings if my clearances are between .021-.053 I would be fine using standard bearings correct?

yea, i would also like to see facts how one is different, and good or bad accoring to tests, rather than hearing someone just call it crap because they dont like it even though they dont know much about it