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well you have to have it close after the AFM, and you cant just put a little filter on it because that will be un-metered air coming in and give you some problems. so you will have to go over or around the motor in some way

how are welded pipes fugy? as americanjebus has his you cant even tell that they are welded, I think the way he did his is the cleanest and most tasteful way to do it.

not sure if anyone has seen this before... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SLEEPER-MOD-87-92-Supra-Turbo-Boost-Controller-MORE-Psi_W0QQitemZ280195376469QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item280195376469 paying money to get someone to give you "step-by-step" instructions on how to shim your wastegate....whats...

right, because since everyones goals are different it really depends on you. For instance, for my motor thats soon to be running Its still going to be on the Ct26 for awhile, but I still have a FFIM with a Q45 and reducing it back down just having that size there so its there when I need it...

H&Rs....

yea, I know, and stuff like that doesnt really bother me, we just had access to all the machinery at the time so we used it to our advantage lol.

no problem, and actually me and my buddy custom fabbed a FFIM up for mine, the only problem we had was the distance from the brake booster to the intake mani was the fact that we had to slide it over the 2 or 3 studs on the head so we needed a little bit extra space...all in all we took a little...

that is measuring from the end of the 6th runner, and yes that is the closest point.

thanks JJ

ok, your looking at 7.5 inches from the intake ports to the tip of the brake booster, and your looking at 11.25 inches fron the ports to the strut tower. Is there any other ones you need?

Ok, I just wanted to know if it is possible to use the non-turbo VSV on the turbo motor? As the info that I found doesn't show them being different part numbers, although I thought they would have been different because the turbo's FPR is a rising rate. can anyone help me out on this one?

I could take a few measurements for you and have them on here in maybe 3 or 4 hours.

Yea, I know there are two different ones and that the 89+ diagram gave me just enough to for sure know that they were the Knock sensors. but by posting that I have now figured out the other wires that I still needed. thanks for the diagram, ill be sure to save that one.

Just because its one that people use for atmosphere vent, doesnt mean you can recirculate it. the HKS BOV has a fitting you can buy to ricirculate it.

wasn't there a whole thread about this awhile ago that gave some in depth diagrams that I believe Jdub posted?? oh and Ian, as I was looking for that thread I noitced that you were the last post on almost all the threads that were refering to a "light weight underdrive pully" ....i guess people...

you were right the two clear ones are KS, I used a multimeter and traced out where they went, the only question I have now is how do I know whitch one is KS1 and KS2?? is the top left clear one the first and the one right next to it the 2nd one on the plug? or does it matter? and is it nessacary...

Whats the KS wires?? And VSV is also what i was thinking on the red ones I just wasnt 100% sure. thanks for the help though:icon_bigg now I only need to figure out a few more...and is the VSV nessary to keep?

actually ive never seen that before, but I dont have the cash for one of those, im having a hard enough time trying to get this car finished up. Is there anyone who can help me identify these?

and even by cranking up the fuel pressure your going to put a heavy load on the injectors

well in that case you should be good to go. If you go with the 550s be sure not to get Venom, they will kill your motor sooner or later lol