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Maybe check to make sure all your hoses leading from compressor housing to your boost solenoid and your wastegate are not broken or ripped.

Are you running a boost controller of some sorts?

What do you have for the rest of your setup? What size injectors? What sort of fuel management? Ect.

Mine does the same thing and it is because it is running rich at startup. The smoke goes away once the motor is all warmed up though. I would not worry at all :icon_bigg

Clutch is still more expensive than tires. :icon_bigg Personally I would rather get a good clutch that can hold power and hopefully last. Remember you can't have the best of both worlds. You choose 1 or the other and live with it.

I have a 6 puck clutch and the chatter is just something you have to deal with. I have learned to just let the rear tires spin a bit when starting out from first.

Well guys are pushing over 500rwhp on the stock flywheel with good clutch setup so I am sure you will be fine. You might as well get a good clutch in case you ever decide to go for more power.

I would just resurface the stock flywheel if it was me.

It is good to hear that AEM is supporting you and even offered to get you running quicker with a replacement. That is the service I like to hear!

Sounds like you have all the information correct. Only use 1 of the cam sensor(rear one is preferred) when you wire up the stinger or else the ecu will get confused and not go back to "home" and start the firing sequence. Make sure you setup the ecu using a normal type and set the trigger for a...

Yes make sure your harness grounds are good. I had 12V at my injectors but they wouldn't open due to bad grounds. I sanded them down and made sure they were tight and they worked.

Why not talk to George at Raptor Racing and get a Feramic clutch disc and use the stock PP?

Well I think I figured out the issue. I went back to the simplest thing possible. I checked the grounds and sanded down the intake a bit and reinstalled the harness grounds. I had my girlfriend turn over the engine and I can hear the injectors open and close with a stethoscope. I can also feel...

Go with clutch or better yet hydraulic!

Well I tried cranking the motor over today and I found some interesting results. With the cam sensor not connected I got no spark or fuel like predicted. With the rewired crank sensor installed I do have spark at the right time. So my sync and trigger sensors must be working properly. Once again...

I am starting to think maybe the injector drivers in the Stinger EMS are fried. I am running out of ideas of what more to check:aigo:

Compression has nothing to do with the injectors not firing. On the flip side compression is excellent.

I tested both cam sensors and they fall within spec of the TSRM. I also rewired them both as the wiring looked like it was going to fall apart. I bet that was the issue to be honest. I will know tomorrow if everything works.

Yes i plugged in my laptop and all I did was use my existing map when i had my car tuned for 440cc injectors and took out some fuel across the entire map. I can see that the stinger is reading how many ms the injectors are open for but once again they are not actually opening. I tried turning...

Did more testing this afternoon. I confirmed that piston 1 is at TDC with the cam and crank marks lined up. Once again I confirmed spark at all 6 cylinders. I tested all the injector plugs and all 6 black wires show 12volts. The white/blue, white/red and white wires show 10.60 volts at the...