Search results

So you pulled the tune off the ecu and looked at it? Did it seem ok? I am not really sure how to help you in this situation. Mind posting your tune?

Well install the software and check the tune. Technically nothing should have happened. You have to physically "read" from the ecu to even read the tune. Or you have to "write" to the ecu to add a tune. So I really do not see how you could have just messed up the tune but sometimes electronics...

He is running the Stinger EMS so the ISCV is not even connected. This might be a dumb thing but check all your vacuum lines. I once had the vacuum line that goes to the Stinger come off and it made it drive terrible lol.

You need the rad with the temp sensor in it. Do you mean stock JZA70 rad or MA70? Also I think you need a hydrofan ecu as well.

When it comes to fuel I would not cheap out. Aeromotive is great bang for the buck and quality lines and fittings cost dollars. Sure you could probably get a no name FPR but I dont want to hear my pistons melted and I do not know why thread.

Correct you will need a FPR. There are not really any limitations of the stock fuel rail unless you plan on making big horsepower. That is probably not the issue as you probably wouldn't be asking these questions if you were.

The difference between high and low impedance is the resistance in the injectors. To use low impedance injections like a UDSM MK4 or a 7MGTE you will need to install a resistor box. The advantage of a top feed rail is that you can use domestic injectors in the rail. Domestic injectors tend to be...

Springs and retainers are recommended for anything bigger than 264 duration cams. You can probably get away without upgrading if you have your shim tolerances pretty tight. With that said I would just upgrade anyways if you plan on revving that high.

Well to answer your question are you looking for injectors that fit the stock fuel rail? If so you need to get some side feed injectors. The next question is do you want high or low impedance injectors? Ideally you want to size injectors for the amount of power/fuel you will consume. Generally...

Looks like a good setup. I have my M14 nozzle mounted about 18" from the TB and from what I can notice no cylinder runs lean. I check my plugs often and it they are seem to be in par with one another. Either way that looks like an awesome setup.

I wouldn't possibly let them go now. I got a really good deal on them because they just came out.

Could be worn out coils. I would check for cracks.

I am only on 17's so that is the big difference. If I was to do it all over again I would just do Ground Controls with Koni shocks and a nice linear spring.

Why don't you just build your own knock monitor? There are tons of DIY threads on the internet that show you how to make such a device. From my standpoint knock control would be nice to have with the ecu but you really need a tuner who knows what he is doing. I would hate for the knock sensors...

2 step is just the second rpm limit. For instance I set it to 5000rpm and when activated I put the pedal to the floor and it keeps it at 5000rpm. Once it deactivates then you have your max rpm. On a side note, I thought u were going AEM?

I agree with this, custom is the way to go.

A standalone ems replaces the factory ecu. A piggyback essentially hacks into the stock ecu.

PS I have been using Stance coilovers for over 2 summers now and they are rock solid.

My only beef with the Stance coilovers is that the rears do not go low enough. If you are looking for that "slammed" look then these are not for you. However if you are looking for a modest drop then these will do everything you want and surprise you :D

Don't worry I will be right here. Now I am not trying to say the Stinger is a bad ems but lets face it the AEM, Haltec, Motec, Vipec ect are much better suited for this application. If I did drag race all the time I would have switched ECU's but it does everything I need at the moment and its...