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The 4x4 guys already posted some really detailed reviews. The cliffs version is that the LEDs are getting there, but Poodles is right, the HIDs still rule the roost for now.

If you are getting fuel and spark - how did you check for spark, btw - then it's a timing issue. Verify the cam rotation against TDC on the crank - I've seen the belt slip a few teeth. Hell, I've seen the belt break, or the tensioner go, too.

In the stock system, it connects to the bottom of the accordion hose between the AFM and the turbo intake. If you have an aftermarket intake, are you still using an AFM? If so, it needs to connect before the turbo, but after your AFM. If you're not using an AFM anymore, it gets complicated...

My test to destruction was still with stock oiling - not even shimmed. :) Evidently you're not going to the right drag strips. At my local strip, Duane got kicked off for running under a 9.999, without a good enough cage. 1100 whp on a 7M.

You absolutely can! Seth sold me a FFIM that kept the AC for my 7M. Relocating the battery to the trunk would make it a lot easier, but even that's not absolutely required.

Well said, Dan. As for the longevity of the 7M, I'll share my story again - before I got into performance parts, I built a 7M with stock parts, including the gasket. The only difference was the head bolt torque, which I set at 80. Years later, I decided I wanted more power, so I picked up...

This. City driving is WAY harder on your car than highway driving.

And that's only 350 hp at the crank. Not 400 at the wheels.

I just spray the inside. Actually, I rarely spray it, I spray into a scrap box, and use a paintbrush to apply the paint.

IIRC, there is another seal and bearing on the shaft, inside the housing. It's a serious PITA to replace, but by now it needs to be done for sure.

THIS. I sold my 7M car with $25k in parts alone into it, for $7500. I paid a fair bit more than that for my 2J car, however, the $$$ already invested in it was way over what I had into the 7M car.

Problem with hairspray is that it's water based, so in wet climates it's possible to lose that grip. Spraypaint, on the other hand, works so well I've had to cut grips off bars more than once. :)

He's likely saying that because of the fact that if you mistreated your 7M, there is a good chance you'll do the same to a JZ engine, with the same results. /me shrugs.

Unless they've changed the 'bolt on' replacements - and I think I would have heard about that - they aren't exactly bolt-on. They bolt to the exhaust manifold and downpipe. You will need new oil lines, water lines, intake pipe, and more than likely the output to the IC will be a different...

You, sir, need to either provide search tips, or shut up. There is a link in my signature about the search police, and why they are worse than useless. I'd suggest reading it. To the OP, I've had both, and had great success with both. Each engine has some advantages. The 2J is nicer...

You also need to make sure the surfaces are clean... nothing messes up couplers faster than a thin coating of oil.

$250 for the brake / clutch combo. Add another $100 for the throttle. Doesn't include master cylinders.

Yup. They are on the list.

Same goes for 110v AC outlets. :)

I guess I can post an update for mine.