Things that make me say "Meh" about the first link:
- Rear seats not shadow grey?
- No pics of driver's side seat bolster that's usually cracked or ripped
- Not the turbo model
- Auto slushbox
- Parking by Braille tape around front bumper
- Wiring harness poking out of console near the shifter...
I'm installing that same CM 850 unit right now. Are you using the FCV? What does it feel like? Do you still ease the pedal with it, or just pop it out and let the FCV deal with it? Does it affect quick shifts when you're already moving too?
Crankwalk is due to single plate clutches that need a lot of pressure... which you certainly will *not* need to hold 500rwhp, so it's a moot point.
I'd suggest sticking with what you have, with the biggest consideration being that you already have it.
Used to have it bookmarked, and now I can't find it.
This place did crazy restorations... like an old Ford Model T, they had wheels machined out of Magnesium, then hand painted with wood grain to look original. They re-plated bolts so they had the original factory goldish tinge. They...
A couple points...
IIRC, the spec discs are thicker, so they probably can't fit two sprung discs in. Also, there are a fair number of folks pushing similar power levels through a tilton triple, which is also entirely unsprung as I recall.
Yes, those three holes that hold the white clips. The washers come on the lower window trim. I was kind of shocked to see them, because when I pulled my original window trim, there were no washers left. A whole lot of dirt, but that obviously wasn't really slowing the leak down.
Plasti did spray is pretty awesome stuff, works rather well.
If you want to get it from a dealer, try the usual suspects - Vancouver Toyota in Washington, Jay Marks Toyota in Texas.
I think the stock lines out of the tank are actually equivalent to -5. I've run 568 rwhp through the stock filter for years - through the stock lines out of the tank to the fuel filter, too. -6 from there forward.
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