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wasnt this on a week ago?

and because this past generation has done such a good job of keeping us afloat..... that said i am a typical gen-y. i multi-task hardcore; i want to know why i am doing something, not just that i need to do it; i don't follow typical advertising and am alot more likely to see what my...

no sweat man! everyone starts somewhere. honestly the middle one would be the easiest on a stock setup.

27x10x3 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing-INTERCOOLER-27X10X3-SAAB-Mercedes-EVO-8-RX-7_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ33742QQihZ011QQitemZ320241854800QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V 27x11x3...

/\ lets not get into that arguement in this thread....

shims = ftw. easiest way to see if its really a weak actuator or something else. plus will give you a lb or 2 more boost

The numbers they are pulling work like this. The harder you push something the shorter the time it will go between breaks. I ran my car at 18+ psi on a stock CT26, SP61GT, and now a JT61GT. Will my car show more wear than a stock boost stock car with a similiar amount of miles? More than...

loop it like IJ said +1. The reason for this is if you cap it off the caps tend to leak over time and it screws with the flow through the coolant system. Some people have reported minor heat issues with just capping the lines. Good luck!

im not allowed back there anymore i think since i broke their toys last time.... that said we gotta do that again soon now that things are warming up!

where are you getting the car shipped from? Alot of good info in this thead thus far and heres some from my own experience. 1. Make sure the car will be on 1 truck the whole time, this decreases the chances of the car arriving damaged. 2. Pay the little extra for door-to-door shipping...

ohhhh ohhh let me guess! let me, let me!!!!! umm is it because the intake tract on the NA and the turbo models is different and also because the difference in flow characteristics under forced induction is different than naturally aspirated?! what do i win? :biglaugh:

qft. running them on my supra and is300 and love them. wear is great, quiet, grip well and cheap!

copper spray is either a great thing or the devil. both mine and my brothers MHG's were copper sprayed before install and both are going strong thus far (over 2 years now){shrug}

agreed, something caused this last hg to fail a MHG will not make things any easier.

search some please as this is a topic thats been beat to death and slightly controversial. you will end up making about the same power, just moving the peak point around is the short answer, not worth it

give it a shot as not many people have run this kind of setup. just keep a strong eye on your a/f and maybe play with your timing some to make the most power (dont see cam gears on your 1st post) that said you will need something to get around FC(an FCD would work if you had some tuning...

both my brother and I are running on MHG and ARPs for a few years at slightly elevated boost levels (~12 and 20 psi respectively) without issue. that said we are running hks 1.2 mm gaskets, copper sprayed, no retorque and LAPPED THE BLOCK while it was in the car. in a perfect world you would...

the change was so minor its doubtful that you would notice it. hows the boost build? are you still hitting the same boost numbers you were before? as always check over your ic pipes for leaks (the one right off the turbo leaks like a bitch).

the jza70 and the ma70 rad's are very similiar. you usually need to find a bolt to block the one port on the bottom (temp sensor iirc)

10 sec on google gave me this http://www.hasteusa.com/ that said koyo makes a great radiator. make sure you flush your system