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http://www.ma70.com/bishop92t/techtips/7mlayout.jpg The water temp sensor for the ECU is just below the turbo water line and charcoal VSV. Intake air temp sensor is built into the AFM. HAC is built into the ECU unless you have an 87 or possibly an early 88. You might want to think about...

I don't know if they changed their design, but those plates used to block the back of the manifold and the side of the head. I.E. they kept the stock EGR cooler, for ease of installation. I wouldn't even bother with that method though, so hopefully they changed their design and you got a rare...

I'm using the GReddy Profec e-01 and HKS SSQV. It would be a bandaid to use it to remove your boost problems, but so long as it netted steady boost it shouldn't be a big deal. The e-01 definitely isn't the easiest boost controller to operate, but it's about the same difficulty to tune as most...

The chrome's usually go for twice the price. I'd suggest finding someone who would trade your rims for some silvers + cash if you have the patience/time :)

Bleed the system, flush the old fluid out. May or may not be the problem but worth a shot.

Pressure is not flow. That K&N oil filter has a nasty habit of increasing pressure by restricting flow. Other then that, the only immediate problem with increased pressure is the increased chance of blowing a seal and/or leaking oil. I would recommend removing that K&N filter in favor of a...

So long as you put regulated pressurized air on the wastegate it should be fine, also provided you didn't put too much pressure on it. You could eliminate the actuator as your problem if you've got a good compressor regulator, give it whatever pressure that it's supposed to fully open at and...

Yes. You may or may not run a little bit richer with it, nbd.

Disconnect the EBC from the actuator to see if it makes a difference. Depending on the EBC type and how it's hooked up, it's possible for it to create a problem. The gutted cat could also be a problem, try running just the downpipe.

It should only make that sound when it's very warm. Before the car has warmed up it shouldn't unless there's a problem. It'll become less obnoxious after a year or two. Personally, I'd rather sound like a 18 wheeler then run the car too hot.

It's temperature based, not RPM based. If your clutch is old it may start to lock up more then it should, or it could slip more then it should. If your clutch is new then it's probably working as intended. I've noticed mine will lock and move a lot of air through the RPM band on a hot day if...

What intercooler and exhaust are you running? Are you running a boost controller? What method did you use to test for boost leaks?

Don't vent that line into your cockpit and it won't be a problem.

Charcoal canister stole my girlfriend and my wallet!

Just to reinforce, you can't just check via the overflow reservoir. That part of the system only works if you have no leaks. Looking for coolant on the ground is not a great test either. It evaporates fairly quick at operating temps, plus there are many places in the engine bay for coolant to...

AC will put additional heat into your system, but it won't cause overheating by itself. Something else has to be wrong. Check your radiator for corrosion, check the front of the radiator for leaf and other garbage blockage, change your thermostat, check your fan clutch. Are you losing any...

The vapors coming out of the charcoal canister aren't enough to alter how the engine runs in the slightest.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/Wiring/pages/Page_125.html On connector A, which is above the steering column, unplug the alarm control box and ground connector 13.

Right, well it's the same thing, just depends on how you charge your system. Some people charge by pressure, some charge by ounces.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/ig/IG_20.html I wouldn't worry too much about the idle RPM. If it idles smooth and the Vf is good, 50 RPM here or there isn't going to be a problem.