Sounds like you're tapped onto the wrong wire for TPS. Unfortunately I don't have an N/A 86.5-88 diagram to double check.
(I'm assuming you've checked your engine error codes and you have none)
A friend of mine had an Optima battery for 2 years before it completely died on him. No warning, one day it worked the next it didn't. It never had very good CCA, so starting on a cold day was iffy. It didn't hold a charge over a long period well either. About the only thing I noticed it...
90ish to 92 got a real PS cooler, not just some hard lines. Well they don't fit with the HKS intercooler at all, so unfortunately I had to remove them. Been running this way for 3.5 years with no ill effects.
Kitties = catalytic convertors. One in the stock downpipe and one bolted in between the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust.
Engine's don't like to run when they have oil (or anything besides fuel/air) inside their cylinders.
top left piece attaches direct to the intercooler, top right to the 3000 pipe, middle left is the upper fender piece, middle right is the lower fender piece, and the little stubby connects to the #1 directly off the turbo
It's not safe to move, remove or bypass FCO in any way without at least an EGT or wideband.
If however you do have at least one of those there are quite a few inexpensive ways to move FCO. An old A'PEXi S-AFC or HKS S-AFR should be fairly cheap on eBay, either will raise your FCO much safer...
Yeah 91-92 got a threaded starter (its also approximately 25% lighter and smaller) instead of the old nut/bolt combo, the bolts thread directly into the starter.
The stock IC is fairly adequate at low boost levels, so the gain won't be huge. I noticed a decent power increase when I went from stock to HKS IC, but I was also running 14psi at the time and had a lot of supporting mods. Really it just depends on your setup and what your current bottleneck is.
With a 91-92 starter and some shims you could, but I wouldn't recommend putting that kind of force on the cover. Or take the bellhousing off the tranny and mock the starter up long enough to start the car.
If it's still under warranty send it back. Personally I'd try for a lower psi actuator. Gives you more room to work with your EBC, and you never know if they had a defective run on your particular psi actuator.
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