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it looks like it actually goes up a few degrees. i would suggest fixing it, you want a nice easy downhill path for the oil to drain, or you can kill your seals pretty quick. if the parts that came with the kit don't work, it means the kit is wrong. it looks like you have an ARZ oil drain...

for your oil drain on the turbo, does it come out of the turbo, then do a 90 degree turn, then 180 degrees?

nashman doesnt need abs, his car doesn't get driven in the rain. or, technically, ever, since its busted.

damn straight.

combo vacuum manifold and PCV manifold. the two ports connect to the valvecovers PCV ports. it cleaned up the engine bay a bunch, but I'm changing setups so the manifold is for sale now. im getting my mill setup, so more unique parts will be on the car eventually.

you mean have the cover machined separetly? is that safe to do? how do you measure it? can you file down the cover by hand?

not planning too. stock turbo for now, so not much flow up top anyways

food for thought: set of 12 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAN-11119-12/

mine are round thin shim stock (can't remember the exact size, something like 0.01" or something) with the centers cut out, like an O, and they are under the shim, on top of the bucket. mine are regrinds i bought used from nashman, who got them from colt cams IIRC. i got the shim stock parts...

if its like mine, i have some on my regrinds, its basically shim stock that is punched out, they fit under the shim in the top of the bucket.

i think the Ti retainers and keepers are a good idea

if it had a benefit for a street car, and i was building up a head, then yes, i would run Ti valves. but from the sounds of it, SS is better on the street when a motor goes long periods of times between rebuilds. dont get offended becuase someone doesnt agree with you. the whole point of this...

why would he delete the thread? from the sounds of it, Ti valves would be fine on a race motor that revs to the moon consistently, but for a street car SS valves are better.

I'd trust Rich at SIP, he's built some very high hp motors.

-20c in calgary isnt cold, it's shorts weather. -40c however....

majority of the failures that i have seen are from companies that copy the design completely (the look), but don't copy the materials. for example, a volk wheel would likely be engineered and tested for a specific process, such as forging. now another company, lets call them atoR, comes along...

honestly, it isn't the design/look copies that really bother me, it is the huge number of wheels that simply are not engineered. there are several brands that directly copy brand name wheels, down to the casting of VIA and other certification, even though they don't HAVE the certification. this...

ya, ive pretty much given up on bspec, the AI is horrible. same goes for the regular AI. I gave up on trying to win a few races, i spun out, and as soon as i get back on the road, i get hit by EVERY AI car.... all 11 of them.

false. i use my credit card for all purchases with Paypal, vendors, individuals, etc, and have never been denied.

nothing to do with beauty, fake wheels aren't engineered to the same degree (if at all) as good brand name wheels. aside from the fact they rip off the design, depending on the brand, they can be seriously dangerous when they fail. but i forgot, this is the mkiii crowd.