Holset on 1JZ, which manifold is better?

[destrux]

I see alot of you who used the Holset turbos on the 1JZ used either an ebay divided T4 manifold, or a custom made one. I saw this one (http://www.ssautochrome.com/level.itml/icOid/1355) online and it already has a T3 flange. I couldn't find anyone who used this manifold though. Any reason why not? Looks to be the same quality as any other china manifold.

Also, for those who used the t4-t3 adapter, did you use a flat (1/2" thick) or the 2 inch thick double flanged style?

I'm using a Holset HX35 with the 12cm divided entry turbine housing btw.

 

[kneedragger85]

The manifold is better than the usual china manifolds as SS321 has way better properties than the typical SS304. You need a divided manifold to run your 8-blade HX35. Even if you get it bolted to the manifold, in my experience with the 7M, it may hit your strut tower. I had a custom angled adapter made for mine to clear. You have a bunch of options though; get a new exhaust housing from bullseyeperformance, get a t4 manifold and t4/t3 adapter, or buy a 7-blade HX-35 or HY-35 as they both are undivided t3's.

 

[hvyman]

Also could cut off the t3 flange and weld on a t4 flange.

Sucks the ssac one is t3.

I bought the cxracing one and it seems to be pretty decent. Im going to use my die grinder and grind out the collector a tad more before i use it and get it coated but for 145$ it looks to be pretty damn good quality. You can see the ghettoness but when its mounted you prolly wont ever even know.

If i could have found one before i got this one i would have gotten a drewgo. I think there still made in china but to better specs. Those seem to be pretty nice manifolds.

Edit: was just looking around on ssac sit and they sell apexi TT for 25+10 and tomei type s afpr for 50$. Fucking cheap. Tomei list the type s at 120 msrp. I think there fakes tho. Really god ones. That fpr is tempting but i wouldnt want to find out.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

Also could cut off the t3 flange and weld on a t4 flange.

Sucks the ssac one is t3.

I bought the cxracing one and it seems to be pretty decent. Im going to use my die grinder and grind out the collector a tad more before i use it and get it coated but for 145$ it looks to be pretty damn good quality. You can see the ghettoness but when its mounted you prolly wont ever even know.

If i could have found one before i got this one i would have gotten a drewgo. I think there still made in china but to better specs. Those seem to be pretty nice manifolds.

Edit: was just looking around on ssac sit and they sell apexi TT for 25+10 and tomei type s afpr for 50$. Fucking cheap. Tomei list the type s at 120 msrp. I think there fakes tho. Really god ones. That fpr is tempting but i wouldnt want to find out.

You want a t3 flange, as the turbo has a t3 footprint.

As for manifold choice, I will be running an XSpower t3 manifold.

If you were to custom make one, a log manifold will spool the HX35w faster than a tubular.

 

[kneedragger85]

If you were to custom make one, a log manifold will spool the HX35w faster than a tubular.

A log manifold would be crazy tire roasting once you hit boost as the difference between 5psi and 20psi is a few hundred rpm and feels like getting hit by a freight train. Whoops, forgot this is for a 1JZ.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

Sounds like you need some stickier tires then if you roast them when you spool the HX35

 

[destrux]

Yeah, from what I've read the 7M china manifolds sit the turbo much lower than the 1JZ manifolds do, so I shouldn't need a high adapter or an angled one for clearance.

I bought a godspeed manifold on ebay, it's made out of the 321 stainless too, and it's a divided T4 flange. It looked like it was better quality than the other cheap manifolds. I bought a stainless divided T3 flange and I'm gonna weld it on top and blend the opening with a carbide bit in the die grinder, then drill the holes through and use longer bolts.

The wastegate tubes on the GSP manifold exit the runners at a better angle (about 45 degrees judging from the pictures) than the rest of the cheap manifolds too. All the books I have say that the wastegate tube should leave the exhaust path at a 45 degree angle (or shallower), but most of the cheap manifolds have it at 90 degrees. Not sure if this improves performance or just reduces boost creep and/or boost spiking.

Turbo should be here tomorrow, manifold on monday, the rest of the parts by the end of next week. I still need to order the aluminum compressor outlet elbow, cause I couldn't find out what size elbow I need for the compressor outlet online, so I need to measure the turbo when it gets here. Also need whatever to fit the downpipe up. I might try making an "orange slice" pipe so I don't have to wait a week for another order to arrive.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

You might get lucky in a JY and find the vband elbow that comes on the HX series from the factory on dodge trucks. IIRC it is a 2.5" vband pipe that comes out at a 90.

 

[destrux]

Oh yeah... I forgot about using the one off the truck. I found one on ebay, but it's broken and they still want $35 for it.

If I can get a ride to the junkyard I'll look for one. Right now I can't drive farther than a half mile before the engine warms up and the turbos go from puffing to billowing. :icon_mad:

 

[rob21a48422]

I've used this manifold with a HE351CW and didn't have any clearance issues. If I had kept the car, I would have put some sort of heat mat on the underside of the hood since the turbo was so close, but it fit.

 

[hvyman]

Get it coated and throw a blanket on it.

 

[destrux]

Yeah I ordered a roll of DEI black heat wrap for the manifold, and I'm going to order a turbo blanket tomorrow. I have to see what size blanket I need, but I figure one listed for a ~1.10A/R T4 should fit.

I got my turbo today, looks good. I have the housings off right now for cleaning and paint. The turbine housing, as always, was stubborn. I figured out an easy was to break it loose after tapping it with a hammer for 15 minutes didn't do anything. I drove a chisel between one of the oil flanges on the CHRA and the head of one of the turbine housing bolts (after I loosened the bolt a few turns). That broke it loose and further tapping with the hammer took it off evenly with no damage to the wheel.

 

[DrWonderEyes]

i have the T3 manifold on mine. the turbo is mounted parallel. not tilted away like most of the T4 divided manifolds.

 

[destrux]

The godspeed manifold doesn't fit right. Should have figured, for the price it would need work. Maybe it fits fine in a soarer body, or in a supra with stock engine mounts (mine are custom).

One of the wastegate runners hits the frame, about 1/4" interference. I tried denting it a bit (the manifold) but I'm not happy with the clearance, it will make noise when the engine twists. The wastegate flange puts the WG 1/2" into the side of the motor mount anyway, so I'm going to cut off their WG runners and weld my own in to put the WG where the stock charcoal can used to reside. Much cleaner, the dump tube will be a straight shot down to the ground then.

I screwed up anyway and got a tial 46mm style wastegate, when the manifold was flanged for a 50mm HKS, so I was going to be cutting and welding anyway.

Last problem is the gigantic -12AN oil drain hits the #1 runner. I'm going to experiment with rotating the CHRA a few degrees off vertical (not much, maybe 5 or 10 degrees), or buy a 45 degree fitting... but I'll make it fit. Going to heat wrap the manifold, and I have heat sleeve for the drain tube too, so even if it touches it should be ok.

The collectors in the manifold are pretty clean for the price, no globs or cleanup required. The head flange isn't pretty, they effed up the bolt holes and they're all off center, but the runners all match and line up with the ports.



I also have to cut down the lower manifold to head studs because they hit the runners in a few spots. I've heard this is common with ebay manifolds.

 

[foreverpsycotic]

The XS power manifold mounts the turbo beautifully. If you have 89.5+ mounts, it will fit perfect with a 40mm HKS style wg. If you have pre 89.5 mounts, you will have very little room between the WG and mount. I will be changing my WG to a different style anyway. Just thought I would give a heads up.

 

[hvyman]

There is also the 30* hose ends.