How Much It Cost You To Do Your Swap?
- Thread starter BurntBisquit763
- Start date
Like S.A. Supra said, you need the 1j bellhousing though with the 7m clutch/flywheel setupsupralover2;1746299 said:
A 7M flywheel will not work as it has 6 bolts in an offset pattern and the JZ flywheels have 8 bolts in a uniform pattern.BurntBisquit763;1746355 said:
The engine swap part of my car only barely broke 3.5K (I fabricated alot of what most people would have just bought), but getting the rest of the car in excellent working condition cost another 3K. Not counting the the recent valve seal job and death of the stock turbos, which cost $800 to do the seals and swap to a single holset turbo.
Still... for ~$7K it's tough to beat.
Still... for ~$7K it's tough to beat.
That's what I'm talking about. I lucked out with healthy turbos and valve stem seals. I get zero smoke daily driving my car. Thus, my swap was on the low cost spectrum.destrux;1746442 said:
destrux;1746442 said:
What does 7k get you on the used market? A 7-8 year old economy car? I'll keep my Supra, thanks.
Also, something to note, flywheels are engine specific, where clutches are transmission specific. Just trying to clear that up if there's any confusion...
7K doing the swap at the bare minimum with all the good parts and replacing the seals that you should and a timing service since it is easy and you have the motor on a stand already.
ifyouaint1sturlast
Banned Scammer - I'm whitemike.
I did my single turbo full rebuild aristo swap for around $3750 doing everything myself and reusing small things like oil lines and fuel lines from the 7m single setup.
Another thing worth noting, replace NOW, anything rubber on the engine. Take it apart, re-seal it, replace whatever coolant and oil drain/feed lines that are rubber, etc... much easier to do when the engine is OUT of the car rather than tucked in nicely.
Two in particular that I hated my life with was the coolant hose centered between the top valve covers (getting the squeeze clamp off) and the other was sliding on the lower radiator hose to the engine with the frame rail in the way.te72;1746914 said:Another thing worth noting, replace NOW, anything rubber on the engine. Take it apart, re-seal it, replace whatever coolant and oil drain/feed lines that are rubber, etc... much easier to do when the engine is OUT of the car rather than tucked in nicely.
The firewall's stitch/lap weld blocked any tool completely so I had to mutilate the clamp into two pieces and the lower hose was an uncomfortable ordeal.
See? Do these things NOW rather than later, rubber is brittle, and without occasional oil to keep it fresh, it likes to dry up, shrink, and cause leaks, both minor and massive!kneedragger85;1746919 said:
My only (so far) rubber failure was one of the turbo coolant lines, burst on my way into the parking lot at work. Lots of steam coming out from under the hood when you roll up tends to amuse co-workers when you just sigh, pull out the pliers, and swap the hose in the parking lot.
BurntBisquit763;1747167 said:
Iron blocks don't suit sports cars well. You'd be MUCH better off with an LS variant or 1uz, even if the 3uz makes a bit more power.
$2800CAD$ for the 1/2cut mk3 TTR 73,000km
leaving stock twins and FMIC, for at least a season
+about another $2000 for incidentals and replacements...clutch assy. inj, driveshaft, mk4 waterpump, etc...
around $21000 for the full resto, without labour value... thats parts/materials... rewrapped leather etc..
leaving stock twins and FMIC, for at least a season
+about another $2000 for incidentals and replacements...clutch assy. inj, driveshaft, mk4 waterpump, etc...
around $21000 for the full resto, without labour value... thats parts/materials... rewrapped leather etc..
I did my 1JZ swap into my 90 for just under $4000, and it was money very well spent. Before you drop the new engine in, do all of the preventative maintenance while it is easy to get to. Water pump, timing belt, etc. Do some research and be ready to wait for those oddball parts to come in the mail. Many parts are interchangeable with other cars/engines, know what goes to what when you order the parts.
!uz has a stonger rod setup as well te72.
Nice thing about the jz is they have metal gaskets so they can be reused. Just did the front and rear main and the timing belt. No issues. But my motor looked new.
Nice thing about the jz is they have metal gaskets so they can be reused. Just did the front and rear main and the timing belt. No issues. But my motor looked new.