1jz vvti not starting!! Need help!! Mk3 swap!!!

[grimreefer]

Hello forum,
Im knees deep in a 1jz vvti R154 swap into an 87 MK3, but cant get it to start. I dropped the motor, wired the alternator (which im hopin i wired right, cuz i couldnt find any info on it besides diagrams) , had to directly solder wire to the pins of the body plug slots following these directions: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?134137-1JZ-GTE-VVT-i-Wiring

Now, Ive wired the starter like a race car (to a manual switch) to avoid NSS issues involving the A341E computer/wires; It turns over, but will not start. The fuel pump is wired in, but Im pretty sure its not getting power. I also dont think im getting a spark, so Im not sure if the ECU isnt working, but I know it is functional.

Am i forgetting a step? Im 99% i have everything for the swap (and a pretty sweet one at that), just dont know if im forgetting a step in the process.. HELP PLEASE!

 

[destrux]

I'm not sure what the story is on the NSS needing to be bypassed like that, usually you just need to jumper the NSS wires on the transmission range switch harness. That's how I did it on my non vvti soarer swap, and that's how I've done it on a bunch of other A/T to M/T swaps. The ECU thinks the car is in neutral and starts and drives fine. If the ECU doesn't like the car being in neutral all the time, wire in a switch to push when you start it.

 

[hvyman]

In the diag box check to make sure you are getting 12v on B+.

Did you swap over the c1 connector and its wires from the 7m harness?

If you jump fp and b+ you should hear the fuel pump go on, and actually it would prolly run the entire time the switch is in the on position.

 

[grimreefer]

well, I did find out how to do the NSS by myself, but one thing no one metions anywhwere i seen, is that the vvti has a A341e not the A340, so the wiring is different and (a whore to figure out), but i figured it out eventueally, but i still would just rather keep the start switch wired from my battery straight to the starter, more simple and then it cant get hot wired from the key, and i got a good secret hidin spot for it

But yeah i wired in everything on that tutorial, not all the wires in c1, but pins 1 &2 ya. The B+ and FP are both definately wired into the ECU. My friens whose shop were using actually realized some fuses blown in my enine bay wedidnt notice before, so im going to replace those tonight, or tomorow, but does anyone else have any reasons that i could not be getting power?

 

[bioskyline]

a common mistake is the gounds that are suspose to be on the intake end up on the starter post.

 

[hvyman]

Tere should be 3 black wires off the c1 plug that need to be wired in and are the main power sources.

 

[grimreefer]

Look at the wiring instructions on the link in my original post, those are the ones i followed, I believe it only listed connections to pins 1&2. Which other wire do i eed to connect where??

 

[hvyman]

There is a black with red that is b+ there is a black with yellow that is batt and there is a black with orange that is mrel. All of them go to the ecu and in fact b+ turns into a y and goes to 2 spots on the ecu. Need all of them unless your wired wierd. Mrel should engauge the efi relay after the ecu sees that the ign switch is turned. Once that relay is powered the fuel pump will get power.

 

[grimreefer]

ah i see where we differ, Im geting my B+ from the stock body ecu plugs, plug B1 pin 9 to be exact, or is that incorrect? because thats what the vvti wiring guide says

 

[hvyman]

Still need to get 12v from the battery and fuse box tho.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47

Try taking a piece of wire and go from the battery to the diag box to B+. With the key on does the fuel pump prime? You will hear it in the rail.

 

[grimreefer]

I wasnt able to work on it today but ill be in there tomorow, and im starting to realize it might just be my fuses/EFI relay, i opened the fuse box when i stopped by today and realized that there were a number of blown fuses (long story, my little brother is an IDIOT). The primary problem has been my fuel pump wont prime nor pump at all, thats what im trying to fix, but i checked the wiring on the 1jz and the B+ in the B1 connector is the same wire on the C1 plug, just its already in the glove compartment which saves wire length in my engine bay..

Ill try what you said and get back to you tomorow night, but from what i gather my wiring should be fine, i think my EFI or FP relay are out probably. Im gonna replace the EFI relay no matter what cuz its like $9 at kragen, but Im hopin the FP relay if fine.. its a little pricey to replace if it isnt broke..

 

[grimreefer]

well apparently Im not going to be able to work on it until friday, but ill post up ASAP

 

[hvyman]

Only difference is the b+ at the c1 plugs comes from the battery after the relay is engauged.

Follow the b+ wire from the efi relay. Tell me where you see somewhere that has a fuse and 12v.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=47

Also you dont have to run it to the ecu. All you have to do is run it from the c1 plug to somewhere on the B+ circuit and the entire circuit will get power.

You have to connect it at the b1 plug so you will have power to the fuel pump when the circuit opening relay is engauged.

Spunds like your not getting power cause there is no power to give.

 

[Vrank!!!]

Acquire multimeter
Turn on key
Check for voltage at all sensors/components that require it
Do "12v mod" to fuel pump
Enjoy. Vvti is awesome


Vvti is no different than non vvti as far as the general concept goes. The same exact things get power from the same exact places. And the power/diagnostic (+b,batt,mrel,w, te-1, etc) shit is exactly the same as z30 Soarer/x90 chaser

Also, in the future, you should probably bench test your harnesses, especially if you're iffy on some of it.

 

[hvyman]

There is no resistor so 12v mod is already done. That is what the resistor is for.............

 

[grimreefer]

Well, I have the chaser motor, so my ecu is compatible with the stock fuel pump config.. Im pretty sure once my fuses are replaced and i check the fuse box to see its in there all right, unless my Fuel Pump relay is burnt then im 99% sure its gonna fire, Ive done just about everthing else by now. Unless there is an issue with my B+ like was suggested ealier, but i think its all wired right for the time being.

And Vrank its going to be the most awesome thing ever.. I cant wait to give this VVTi thang a try XD Plus I got the 67mm ball bearing ceramic turbo coming in the mail

 

[grimreefer]

Well Im here now, replaced all the fuses and still getting nothing, gonna check the B+ connections and get beck to you guys

 

[hvyman]

With the key on you should have 12v at b+. Chaser motor has a fp comp. Idk how you wired it up but you need b+ hooked up at the c1 connector.