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Pulled the master and slave off of the car, went to bolt on the new parts, only to discover that I was given the wrong parts. So I returned the wrong ones (slave for a nonturbo and master for an 85? wtf?) and picked up the right ones, going to put them on tomorrow.

We welded old bolts onto mine and yanked them out with a slide hammer and a 3 jaw, didnt have a collet. Not the best (or advised) way to do it, but as long as you protect the block it can work.

05 Subaru Legacy GT. Turbo, 5 spd, awd, good all around dd. Stock at the moment, planning on the basics soon (intake/exhaust/ecu tune) to get a bit more power, and maybe lower it an inch or so.

if you want to keep the dp and manifold, you need to keep the ct26 exhaust housing. everything else can get changed. I'd still say the SP bolton is one of the best ones, backed by a good company. Albert seems to make good stock upgrades if you want to spend a bit less.

bad coils maybe?

Build one. I used a 4x4 aluminum square tube, some 4"x1/8" flat stock for caps, a Vibrant weld on bung + cap, and some push-lock hose connectors. Total price with parts and welding was about $100, welding was $40, cap was about $40. Fits perfectly, and totally custom. I'll get pics later if you...

I'm curious what you mean by "smoke test". The piping needs to be pressurized to your boost pressure (or higher preferably). Something might not leak at 5 psi, but will at 12 for example. Have you had the car tuned yet? If you are on the stock ECU and have a vented (not recirculated) blow off...

if you don't want to spend a lot, I would look at Megasquirt or an AEM v1. How complicated it is to install depends on how complicated you want to make it.

I actually made that picture for my user icon many years ago. It was a joke, making fun of my own stupidity. Not the cars fault if the owner doesn't take proper care of it.

if the actuator is giving you issues, buy a new one. Driftmotion carries them.

if you want an easier solution, you could also look at the CT-based bolt on turbos like this one from SP: http://www.spracingonline.com/store/Precision_CEA_Billet_87-92_MKIII_Supra_Direct_Bolt-On_Turbo/3143 That would let you keep your IC pipes and downpipe (might need mild modifications).

I'm setting aside money from each paycheck for the 2013 Black Friday sale :) Last year the turbo was around $150 off. I'd still get it directly from SP even at regular price, as their support is top notch. Here's the link to the 6262...

Why not get it tuned properly before you change more parts? Adjusting timing and fuel will greatly effect how the car drives. If you move to a T4, you will likely have slower spooling, but more top end power, completely depending on the turbo you choose of course. I'm eventually aiming for...

car looks great, but the green text is a bitch to read if you have a white background.

looks good. what are you using for a pump?

You can re-pin the wires at the ecu, using the factory wires in the harness just makes it a cleaner solution than running new ones. I'm NOT saying the factory AFM wires go to the right pins for your MAP and IAT sensors, you need to make sure they go to the right pins on the AEM ecu.

you could trace the AFM wires through the harness, then shorten them and put your new sensors on them.

I just have to say, the bottle opener built into the bumper is sheer genius. Well done.

also hosted here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?37895-MK3-Engine-Fasteners&highlight=engine+fastener+list

My map is plumbed off of the intake manifold, and the IAT is about 6 inches before the throttle body. You can run new wires or use the stock ones, depends on how much you want to hack up your harness.