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Sounds about right, if you already have a hole drilled in your downpipe, than installing WB shouldn't take you that long.

Haha, that looked like fun.

$116 for used/refurbished hub, and no labor fee, I guess that ain't too bad. Speaking of Sawblades, anyone want's a set of 4? 2 of them have some old 225/50/16 on them, the other 2 are just the rims.

Been noticing slight vibration/knock on pass side (front) when going highway speed... figured that my rotors are all messed up (no biggie, got some spares)... after all, I just had both front wheel bearings replaced by firestone, what else could go wrong ? Put it up on the jack stands... pass...

I got some saw blades with old 225's as well. I'm up in Killeen thu.

I drive white '89 with OR plates, mostly on the Cav side by clear creek

Suprapowaz, what kinda slicks you running ? I got me a set of DOT approved Mickey Thompson slicks, and these things are freaking awesome on the street, makes it really hard to spin tires, unless your in the rain.

I have 12v mod on mine. As far as tuning, I'm using safc 2 and afpr atm. Have not done WOT yet, waiting on a new inner tie rod to come in, so I can actually drive it, lol. I did 6 degree retard on exhaust (same as on my stock set up) will see how it runs, hopefully on Tuesday.

Internally, that's the only thing I have. I have cam gears installed as well, but heard of people using stock gears and just setting them at TDC. I have walbro 400, and it was just drowning in fuel, 10.5-10.8 on idle, and I couldn't keep it running, untill I raised the idle screw, and brought it...

Just 264's. It's on 1j.

Just got my cams in. Man that thing was a b*tch to start and idle!

My 6 puck does that in 2nd and 3rd.

Are you guys serious ? G37/370Z's are slow. They might get a jump on you in 1st (off the line) but once you go 2nd and 3rd, they are gone.

Not my only car, but my only DD, wife drives the other one. Yes, 'hence the reason I went on post.

Called firestone on post, they quoted me $742 parts including. Think I'm just gonna go ahead and do it. Damn, I wish I had my own shop..

S.A. How much you think BJ gonna cost ? I might be able to just take the hubs off, and press in/out bearings myself (with a press)... unless it's more complicated than that.

Need both front wheel bearings replaced, any advice ? What parts would I need, other than wheel bearings x2 ?

I don't know if this has been brought up yet, but I just had a similar issue, Braking up @ around 4-5k on boost. Had to lover my base FP about 8 psi + retune, solved the problem.

Got it working. The triangle/A terminal on clutch safety/start sensor went to + (where my boost/afr gauges connect), the other terminal (looks like F) went to ground. The white wire from Bee *R splices into + wire that comes off Triangle/A terminal on sensor and splices with my gauges. Good...

I'm missing those wires (can't find them under there). what if I just run a + wire from one of my gauges, and a - from battery (ground), than splice BeeR into positive wire ?. Which one is a positive terminal on clutch switch ? the Triangle/A ? ---------- Post added at 11:58 AM ----------...