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Hopefully you can work out your picture issue, I'd like to see this. While you have the head off of the car, you may want to helicoil all of the exhaust stud holes. I think Driftmotion still sells a kit for it. It's much easier to do off the car, and then you never have to worry about it.

the last time that I had issues with starting my car was after I messed around with the ignition coils. make sure yours match what the TSRM shows: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=1

The exhaust cam has a gear on the end to drive the cam position sensor, so it's easy to tell the difference. If you switched the two, the car wouldn't run at all (no CPS signal). IIRC the 7M is non-interference, so even if you did, nothing should be damaged. Aside from your pride, of course. As...

If you want the other pulleys, I bought the Driftmotion ones. They are nicely made. http://www.driftmotion.com/7M-3pc-Pulley-Kit-p/dm2514.htm

I'm not sure which one it is, can't find my receipt. I think it might actually be a GT500 rotor. Next time I'm working on the car I'll try to check.

They don't respond to emails anymore, or maybe just mine. I've been trying to get one of their cast alternator drop brackets.

I honestly don't remember the rotor model, I might have the info at home somewhere, I'll check. They are 14"/355mm diameter, 1.26"/32mm thick rotors. I got as far as mocking it up, seeing how everything lined up, no brackets made. pic of the rotor in my thread...

I have a set of those front calipers. They almost bolt up (1 hole works, the other is off by an inch iirc), making the adapters shouldn't be too hard. I don't recall which rotors I got, I think maybe 370Z? You will need hub centric rings to center the rotor. I stalled on my setup, I would need...

See my dyno curve above. Tons of torque down low. I did it after seeing Dr Jonez's dyno curve, huge area under the curve. Makes driving it quite fun. You can also change the powerband up/down by changing the length of the intake runners, changing the volume of the intake manifold...

I might end up redoing it. I learned a lot through the build process. I like the Ross Machine Racing style.

Just for some perspective, my car did 320rwhp/360ft-lbs with a stock turbo and a FFIM. I had other mods, but the powerband is helped a lot by the FFIM, better flowing IC, and shorter piping. If you can build your own or buy a good one for a decent amount of money, I would suggest doing it...

More info? Who sells that?

Mind taking lots of pictures whenever you end up doing it?

what do the vents in the fenders do? just heat extraction? did you do any ducting? did you do any testing to see the best spot to put it? I'm always impressed by the work you put into your car :)

Use large bolts and big washers or a doubler plate underneath the mounting bolts for the box to spread the load. Sheetmetal screws will not hold the battery in place in an accident, and you don't want a battery flying towards the back of your head. Aside from that, there is a guide on here...

I replied to your PM, but with my MKIV TT rear wheels and a Project Kics 15mm bolt on spacer, I had to trim the stock studs to fit. It will depend on the wheel you use.

holy shit.

ha beeteedubs, your website doesn't work.

don't you need a firewall between the fuel cell and passenger compartment? you know, because of fiery death?

yup