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Sir, I believe you just pegged the awesometer.

Pacesetter has a hotdog, big difference. I have a set of headers on my car that needed no modifications at all, so perhaps your knowledge is far from complete.

The 2.5" Pacesetter exhaust is a nice fit, but tends to develop a nasty drone at around 2000 rpm. If you were prepared to put a resonator in it, it kills most of the drone, and the pacesetter exhaust is cheap enough to make it worth modding a little that way.

So I trial fitted the extractors today. I have even more respect for Toyotas now I've pulled the old exhaust off, all the manifold nuts etc are stainless steel and hadn't corroded in place. The extractors fitted perfectly, I didn't have to tweak them in any way at all. All I have to do is fit an...

Aloshan, everyone in the world knows the troubles YOU have had listening to anyone and spending any of your precious time finding someone to work on your car for $10/hr. You've posted at least six separate threads about it in the last 3 months on at least three separate forums. So, maybe the...

Engine oil works really nicely in manual transmissions, especially synthetics, with their ability to flow well at low temperatures. Just remember to change much more frequently than you would if using gear oil. I've owned a few cars that the manufacturers specced engine oil for the manual...

Frankly, you are the mother of all fuckups. You are having trouble having your car looked at because you think you know it all and the mechanics want nothing to do with you. So, when you've been working on old, high mileage engines for over 20 years, including a lot of time diagnosing problems...

I agree with IJ, either a chock full fuel tank, or empty with the cap off (removes the condensation threat because air inside and outside of tank is same temp). You can buy "fogging" oil in a spray can, used a lot in the marine industry to store engines. Just squirt some down each spark plug...

Coincidence, it does not apply to engines. All these problems are linked to one issue. OP doesn't know jack about engines, and instead of cluttering up the forums with questions and refusing to listen to very knowledgeable people, he should just spend a few hundred dollars at a mechanic. I guess...

Drive the car. Go for a nice hour or two drive, get everything well and truly up to temperature. Don't maintain a set speed too long, do some reasonably heavy accelerations up to about 3-4k rpm here and there, load the engine up. Just don't rev it to redline, a little boost won't hurt...

1400km after rebuild? Let me guess, you've been babying it, driving it to and from work? I've seen rings take 5000kms to bed in and that's not uncommon. Did you do the rebuild? What were the bore clearances set at?

How would a timing pulley tooth end up in the oil pan?

Yes the blue was "just" from heat. What do you think that "heat" did to the rod cap? Perhaps allowed it to elongate and ruin any chance of it providing the correct crush on the bearing shell perhaps? Oh BTW, how did reusing that old rod work out for you? See the point yet?

You reused the old rod. Once a rod cap changes colour, it should be considered junk.

7MGE has a cam position sensor, it's called the distributor. The Hall sensor inside does the exact same thing as the CPS on the GTE. It will work just fine. Will be way easier running one coil off MS than three.

It's the cold start injector. They don't do much work most of the year, and when they're needed, they are clogged up and full of gunk.

You guys must be pretty bad at modding cars, I've cooled many vehicles with electric fans that have replaced clutch fans. and 1-2hp? Try 6-7hp when the fan clutch engages. The alternator will use maybe another .2hp to turn when a big fan is fully wound up.

Engines do not need backpressure. Kill this myth already. If they needed backpressure, extractors would not work. Think about it.

I wonder how many here have any actual experience with anything to do with engines? It will cost $40 or so to get that welded and another $40 or so to have the exhaust face machined. As for a sign of a bad head, nonsense.

Worst case, it will weld up easily. Given that it's at the edge of a casting, it will both be easy to prepare and weld and not introduce any real stresses into the casting. So don't stress out about it. If you get it welded, you can get the manifold surface machined too.