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nope that just means you had issues and now replaced the motor. That puts a BIG question mark on the new motor as anything not in spec, not broken in will show up but not until later.

In before the eminent lock! ***GEORDY!!**** a_sesshoumaru this threads are not very conducive to anything. Chuck it up to evolving technology and leave it at that.

have a MDC upgraded CT26 actually.

OEM is good also but priced higher than the NGK.

Well I heard that he was the one that actually parted the red sea and not moses. Moses was just a "look at me" whore and took the credit!

not a good sales person are ya? ;) You never ever focus on the bad. You focus on the good. No radio is not that big a deal. No A/C depends on where you are at might be a big deal breaker.

Toyota specifically. Might need to do a parts cross reference with them. I am trying source the connectors and terminals from elsewhere.

yes but my point is that they do wind tunnel testing to make sure it works. They do not (any car company really) arbitrarily design something and call it a day. And unless someone here has access to a wind tunnel at a fairly inexpensive rate. It is not happening.

have you actually paid attention to the design of the BMW underbodies? Like Ferrari, they wind tunnel test all those passages to make a system of venturi's, vortex generators and air diffusers to get that air in and out.

I have to ask. What exactly is that box in the 2nd picture and how come the fuse/relay block on the passenger foot well is not in that picture? Have A/C connected in your car? The blue 2-wire connector looks like the blower power wire.

The first question is what exactly will you do with the super heated air that is now trapped in the engine bay? Toyota is not as silly as it might seem on the surface. They made the engein undercover that long for a reason.

HA HAHAHAH HAHAH.. No that is not a laughter of joy. That is a laughter of pain! I am not even close. Further along than before but still not close ;) Wiring the way I wire is time consuming. And then comes the making it pretty part (DR25, tyco electronics heat shrink splits, 90 degree...

lucky for you that they are internal balanced. if you look at the back part of the damper. You will see a zinc oxide plate. That is the balancing plate. Man you need to be careful! Thankfully the machine aluminum is nowhere near as "breakable" as the metal that they use on the OEM pulley.

This time. Everyone has used the craptacular crimpers that they sell at NAPA, Autozone etc. Well there is a crimper that is meant to do the job right and do it right the first time. Tyco Electronics Pro-Crimper III for PIDG based terminal and butt-splices. With this tool and the...

TOOLS TOOLS TOOLS TOOLS!!! You either have the right tools to do the job properly the FIRST time or you don't. People hate crimping. I myself love it ESPECIALLY when the tools are available to do it correctly. So I introduce you a pricey crimper but the ONLY way to crimp plastic based ...

you are supposed to MACHINE it down. not sand it. if i recall it was .1 of an inch give or take.

pointing down. That way it is out of the way :)

all and everything. As I always noted, I will be producing power but at the same time, be comfortable with the A/C kicking out nice cool, dehumidified air ;) The rats nest in post #38 labled AC-system.jpg is the AC circuit after being isolated from the main electrical harness. It looks bad...

kind of hard to say on the PSI front. Flow front, should be easy to calculate. Literally spin the turbo and measure the volume of air it is pushing. Of course need the right equipment to do that!

it depends on the part. For instance. Even the the orthodox pulley where cheaper. They were not damped. In that instance, it might be cheaper but more expensive in the long run. Has anyone attempted sheet metal (aluminum or anything really) for the undertray?