Theres a chance you've already nuked it by doing that.
You also really need to bleed it, or something else went horribly wrong. It should disengage well before halfway down on the pedal.
Just read the little sheet that the ARP fasteners come with, I'd put money on not one single person in this thread being correct so far.
I've done both studs and bolts, but don't remember specifics, and speculation is very dangerous.
On mine its only the LH that won't disable the alarm. Almost certainly due to corrosion or debris from the cylinder missing the little flapper door in my case.
Since the throttle plate is completely shut when you release it, the ISC controls all the air for idling all the time. The most important variation it does is raise idle for cold engine running, but it also has more minor variations for things like electrical load, etc. BTW, all of this is...
It is a bit more expensive to go with a dash, but I have probably got $800 in gauges so the difference is within the "worth it" range for some.
BTW, GReddy gauges, at least the old school green/amber ones are extremely high quality - certainly not saying otherwise.
Jeff Tamulis (as mentioned earlier) puts together turbos from a couple component sources to make his "JT" series, they seem well regarded and bolt to the stock manifold to boot. They'll easily make the kind of power you're looking for.
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