Search results

To match the flow potential of the Stant to the OEM.

Welp, I drilled a couple too many holes in the Stant and rendered it incapable of restricting flow enough for the current, very low, ambient. Time to get another, LOL. D'oh!

Hooray! You guys finally realized "how much hp??????????????" is an idiotic question! :)

Yea, good idea! E85 is well known for being kind to Aluminum...

The best location would be in the oil pan.

SO, until now I had always cited jdub's info of <176 being in a warm up mode, but after looking up the manual pertaining to our generation of TCCS that number may be slightly high. The manual for our antiquated EFI system indicates that <158F it is in warm up enrichment. In addition to that...

I have no idea what you're on about... your last post was about that brand you were recommending. I was referring to grimreaper... who is a sort of mythical supernatural character, hence the magic references. The post directly above the one you quoted. Talk about looking like a tool... I also...

Looks like it to me, I get it from sears so it's kleen-strip brand but it should be the same sort of 99+% pure MEK. It's found by all the other paint chemicals (acetone, denatured alcohol, etc) usually. Just use gloves, and try to work in a ventilated space... you'll see why the second you open...

Put in the Stant 13366 in today. As I expected it's motor/valve assembly are a smaller diameter than the OEM one, so I modified it with several additional holes to achieve equal opening area to that of the Toyota one. Yes, that will effect it's warm up time slightly, but I don't anticipate it...

Yes, it's super toxic, but it definitely does the job. You'll clean everything off metal... including most plastics and any finish that was on. "real strong and safe"... not sure if there is going to be an easy solution to that. Real strong seems to be almost directly related to unsafe. LOL

Welded diff is a terrible idea, LSDs come stock on any turbo and many NA, very rare to hear of an axle breaking before either the diff or gearbox.

WOW! What were you doing with the intake manifold off if you clearly had no idea what you were doing? If I may ask... just so I know when your motor 'splodes in a couple weeks.

My favorite is MEK. Probably will want to use gloves as you'll be losing a layer or 2 of skin the next day each time you use it.

Black magic and voodoo, with a dash of witchcraft. (It's so easy, any monkey who can read english can figure it out without too much trouble)

Have to admit... I LOL'd at "meatballs"! :p

Interesting how the tested temps criss cross/align dependent on RPM...

If the goal is hotter heat, then OK. When I read, I assumed he was speaking of engine temp and not cabin temp... considering nothing in this thread had anything to do with cabin temp until [potentially] that post.

^Until I just saw that diagram I had assumed "offset" was the element being skewed to the spring side. Thats the 1st "offset" one I have see where the mechanical bit is actually offset in the flange. OEM is not offset, not sure if that is an issue for that PN, just figured I'd bring it up.

Any thermostat should be checked in water before installation anyway. If anything the higher temp thermostat would make warm up longer... since you need another 30* to be "warm". Unless like I asked and Ian brought up, the 160 is doing nothing but prolonging your way to and equilibrium temp of...

If everything else is stock... it probably will not.