ahh yeah, good ol Reg Reamya.
btw, Jayson, you need to gimme my cut from our last scam. i got bills to pay, cuz! you suck at answering your IM's too. wake yo ass up before 1pm!
i figured if we put the PS right above the ac, we could switch to a 4 rib belt and not hurt anything. we can run the ps and ac together, and reconfigure the AC tensioner to PUSH rather than pull, we can get more belt contact on the PS pump pulley and eliminate potential slippage. however, AC...
thats really weird, because the 1JZ bellhousing is ~10mm SHORTER than the 7M bell housing, so the whole tranny DOES shift forward, meaning the rear tranny x-member does too. and i know i had a problem getting the bolt holes to line up when reusing the MA70 rear tranny x-member. i had to switch...
CJ... you are slightly mistaken.. the GReddy T78 is only a 63mm inducer, or 67mm.. its in the 60's range for sure. the T88 is a 74mm inducer. i took my compressor housing off and measured it, it came out to 74mm and the exducer was 104mm.
no, without the hood latch assembly, the hood will NOT pop up enough to get your hands underneath it. you need to dig your finger tips under the edges of the hood and lift up that heavy piece of shit with the tips of your fingers. it takes longer and your hand is in contact w/ the hood longer...
yo bob... if hes down for the new price, i say do it.
this is your chance to start fresh, with a virgin car. you can take ALL the knowlege youve learned over the years and do everything RIGHT, down to the T.
Johnathan... i cant even reply to that statment of cars youd buy w/ the money...
you remove the top w/ a 6mm allen bit. you can get a 1/4" rachet with a 6mm socket on it. then use the stock toyota targa key, put it in the socket and you have a targa tool cheaper than OEM parts.
also, the bolt sequence is under the driverside visor. if you are looking down at the car from...
that plug under the TB is the fuel pressure Up VSV. the plug for the EGR VSV is located on the harness closer to the firewall. its also brown, like an injector clip.
just fold it back and tape it to the harness for a stock appearance.
+11!!!!eleven for torque wrench @ 195 lb/ft with car in 5th gear and e-brake on... then removing torque wrench, installing breaker bar with 4 foot pipe and having 2nd person pull as you push and move the bolt another 1/8 turn past 195 lb/ft ;)
uh, well it WILL pull vaccum after the throttle opens... those nipples pull air BEFORE the throttle plate. so as soon as the plate is opened, it allows aire to be pulled thru the nipples. if you dont block them off, they will be boost leaks too.
figgie, ar eyou saying the stock rail is incompatible with certain fuels?
i had my stock fuel rail modified.
i had the ends drilled out and -6an fittings welded on. then the fittings are drilled out to -8an ID. the stock FPR and FPD holes are dowled and welded shut. the CSI port has a...
its not the solenoid. the 7M starters are problematic in their old age. i had a problem on my car like that. at first, i thought it was a dead battery. same symptoms. so i left it jumpered to my other car for half an hour, trying to charge the battery. i came back, no luck. determined it was the...
dont tap into the wire at the ecu, cuz that means you have to run an extra wire all the way into the trunk. just use the existing wires toyota provided you! ;)
when you eliminate all the other BS on the fender, you can just join the wire from the ECU that triggers the STOCK relay, and...
engine pull = more labor, but more quicker progress.
jayson and i are the 7M pulling Masters. its down to an art form. we would be able to do it, start to finish in less than 2 hours. but there is always SOMETHING that holds us up; rusted exhaust bolt, seized DP bolt, etc.
in fact, you...
yes, having your timing extremely advanced will cause your engine to idle high and random backfire/misfire. i had this happen when my CPS was a tooth off and was running about 25* BTDC advanced.
you CAN just disconnect the fuel inlet pipe from the tank where it comes down from the filler door...
if you DIDNT remove those 4 bolts that hold the filler neck to the fender, then they were never there to begin with.
it IS easier to unbolt the straps from the rear than from the front...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.