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i dont know what happens when you crimp, i solder. crimp connections are so shoddy. there is always potential for the wires to come apart. but soldering is like welding. crimping is like bolting. things can come unbolted, but when the 2 pieces are joined together on a molecular level, i some how...

its possible it uses the same input wire, just the SAFC needs reconfiguerd for a PR-1 instead of karmann input. you lucky bastard, i want to do a Turbo A build up. i actually want to replicate the Group A competition car that was sponsored by Minolta... for historical purposes and such...

right. theoretically, stock bolts torqued down to the stock rating would never reach their plastic limit. this means they can be reused up to their plastic limit, but thats all. after 72 lb/ft, its theorized that the stock head bolts wont return to their original shape/length and will never have...

lol. cmon guys, i always try to be funny! i typically dont postwhore to post whore... i make ita point to say something constructive even if the main basis of my reply is off-topic... like when i make fun of Jayson for being jewish or something like that. but anyways, 500mm/hg is about...

you guys DO realize that there will ALWAYS Be about 2 gallons sloshing in the bottom of the tank that cannot be sucked up by the fuel pump pickup... right? regardless of your car stalling out and the gas light on, there is still fuel in the tank. and im willing to bet, a dry fill is...

yeah, one goes right by the hole that the oil pump mounts into, the other is under the oil pump pickup tube, where the oil pump pickup tube stay bolts to the block w/ the 10mm bolt. they are diagonal from eachother

closed loop means that the electrical circuit is completed, so voltage can fluctuate up and down. it means that the cycle can complete itself to ground. open lop means that the electrical circuit is INcomplete and there is a break in it. the voltage cant fluctuate and has no path to ground...

if you put the longer screw in, it causes the AFM to count more air. this makes the ecu add more fuel. the longer screw is counterproductive in this case. dont do it. back the screw out more. you need to get more air in w/o the ecu knowing it. if you have an AFPR, try to back down the fuel...

that McD's analagy would work... except that they dont Supersize anymore cuz americans cant handle the responsibility of the calories and are retarded enough to try to sue McD's for making them fat due to the super size offerings. but seriously, coolant hose will always swell and breakdown in...

are you kidding? thats not a Divorced dp and the wg isnt dumped... your whole EXHAUST is dumped. you basically created a HUGE leak in your downpipe... your flowing more exhaust than a full Dp and exhaust but less than open DP. thats why it sounds mack trucky and makes noise all the time...

you know, back in the day when i posted up about a steel 1 piece, people didnt seem to be as interested.... weird. anyways, id do it, except i have a shop right near me that can driveshaft fabrication or alteration. i was going to take in my stock DS to see if they can just cut the ends off...

yo CJ. youre not exactly a ricer. youre car isnt mostly stock... now if you have the spring still functional, that would make a world of difference in quickly getting the hood open. alot of people would completely remove the entire latch assembly and not have anything to pop the hood up at...

you could use them for a Boost only guage though, like Blower pressure gauges that automeater has... youd never see vaccum though ;)

technically, yess you want to keep the relay and resistor pack. reducing the voltage going to the fuel pump will prolong its life and allow it to "relax" a little. also, itll apply less pressure and volume to the fuel system. here is the diagram you need to work from; you connect the...

lol... Johnn D... you dont know that i make up my own words these days??? cmon now! and anal leakage is teh LOSE. my old roomate was afflicted with that... needless to say, he always smelled funny unless he just got out of the showa.

what, knowing that metric vaccum readings arent important??? no one else mentioned that average vaccum is 500mm/hg. i figured thats useful information for those of us running a Metric boost guage... like anyone w/ a Defi, HKS or GReddy... you know.

you should see it though.. its more efficient, and there are no 90* turns that the fuel flow has to make like if ihad use metric adaptors in the stock banjo bolt holes. technically that works... but so do log manifolds. and i think you guys know how i feel about log manifolds. btw, my fuel...

if you have the EGR shit removed, its EASY to get at the starter and tap on it. my problem is when the car is COLD, not hot. it starts consistantly and reliably when its hot. i did take a starter to autozone and they tested it and verified that it was in good shape. they tested it over...

yes, they can replace it and be reliable. the cougar/contour fans are FAR superiour to DSM fans... and the DSM fans are pretty damn good. DSM fans move copious amounts of air. but another guy did a writeup on the contour fans and they fit the MK3 radiator very nicley. he said that just...

see, silver88jabroni knows whats up! only catch is, when you torque on the bolt, the whole engine is goign to rock, then its going to compess the s prings in the clutch disc, and THEN itll finally start torquing the bolt. so just keep that in mind. just cuz the wrench moves 1/8 turn doesnt...