im going to atempt to do my fuel system this weekend please let me know if it was a straight forward install and what problems to look for. also please let me know if any of you have moved the fuel filter and where to place it tahnks alot ppl all feedback is appreciated
Walbro install
- Thread starter killarb634
- Start date
drop the tank, take out the old pump, use the supplied crimp connectors (or solder if you feel like it) the wires and shrink tube them, reinstall pump, put tank back....very straightforward
I think I had to "hoseclamp" the pump to the stock bracket, IIRC. Easy install. The worst part of doing my fuel system was wiring in all of the new injector clips.
Drain the gas or run the car till the gas light comes on - You don't want to drop a tank with 80 pounds of gas in it.
funny i installed my walbro according to the direction and when i was done the car wouldn't rev past 4 grand that was 3 yrs ago .......still never figured out why
1sic7 said:
wow i hope you havn't been driving for 3 years with it like that. i just put my walbro in and would have been a quick job if everything wasnt so rusted. the rust made the fittings on the line to the fuel filter a huge pain in the ass to remove. good luck and i hope it not to rusty.
another often overlooked is taking out the four screws that hold the filler tube in to where you fill the gas up...gotta take those out or youll be wondering why the tank wont come down 
also its easier to remove the straps from the rear of the car and this way they will be out of your way as well....
also its easier to remove the straps from the rear of the car and this way they will be out of your way as well....
the straps aren't that big of a deal, I just rotated them out of the way......but the tank just fell out when i did that and released the lines, didn't have to take out any screws near the filler.....dropped 3 different tanks, never had to do it...
Squid699 said:
to pull the tank out from the car you need to otherwise it will just hang there.... is it possible to change the pump without pulling the tank all the way out? yes... is it easier to just take out the screws and pull the whole tank out....yes
Squid699 said:
pop your fuel door and see if there are four screws there....if there ARE then you have one freaky tank lol...
otherwise they are probably missing
and i demand pics you CAN just disconnect the fuel inlet pipe from the tank where it comes down from the filler door...
if you DIDNT remove those 4 bolts that hold the filler neck to the fender, then they were never there to begin with.
it IS easier to unbolt the straps from the rear than from the front. ive done it both ways, and the rear was easier since the tank just slides out rearward and the straps dont get in the way.
and it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove the fuel pump w/o pulling the fuel tank from the car.
also, solder the wires. dont half-ass it and use crimp connectors.
if you DIDNT remove those 4 bolts that hold the filler neck to the fender, then they were never there to begin with.
it IS easier to unbolt the straps from the rear than from the front. ive done it both ways, and the rear was easier since the tank just slides out rearward and the straps dont get in the way.
and it is IMPOSSIBLE to remove the fuel pump w/o pulling the fuel tank from the car.
also, solder the wires. dont half-ass it and use crimp connectors.
Idealsupra said:pop your fuel door and see if there are four screws there....if there ARE then you have one freaky tank lol...
otherwise they are probably missing
and you shall have them when I get back from college this weekend!
As for a fuel pump install, be VERY careful of the fuel outlet from the tank. They tend to rust and when you attempt to disconnect it with spanners you can quite easily break the pathetically small metal fuel line.
Make sure you have a good enough jack (something that rises atleast 40 cm high) to support the weight of the tank. Get some rags too, you don't want to risk cracking the tank.
The big nuts that hold the 2 metal straps tend to rust too, so be careful not to chew them.
Putting the tank back up is even more fun. Best to remove the rear right wheel and the plastic mud guards so you can see and align the tank up better.
Make sure you have a good enough jack (something that rises atleast 40 cm high) to support the weight of the tank. Get some rags too, you don't want to risk cracking the tank.
The big nuts that hold the 2 metal straps tend to rust too, so be careful not to chew them.
Putting the tank back up is even more fun. Best to remove the rear right wheel and the plastic mud guards so you can see and align the tank up better.
SC61 MK3 said:
driving it hahahahahaha.............thing would even move for the 3 yrs im just starting to get back on it
i dont know what happens when you crimp, i solder. crimp connections are so shoddy. there is always potential for the wires to come apart. but soldering is like welding. crimping is like bolting. things can come unbolted, but when the 2 pieces are joined together on a molecular level, i some how have more piece of mind with the quality of my install.
im the kind of person that solders EVERY possible electrical connection and REFUSE to use crimp connections unless absolutly unavoidable... such as spade connectors for removable electronics or spade connection inteface like aftermarket switches/relays.
if i had the means, i would scavenge an appropriate weatherpack connector off a junkyard car and solder on the ends of the new wires to make a real connection of OEM quality.
besides, crimp connectors rarely make the installation clean enough for my personal preferance.
solder and heat shrink are the only way for me
im the kind of person that solders EVERY possible electrical connection and REFUSE to use crimp connections unless absolutly unavoidable... such as spade connectors for removable electronics or spade connection inteface like aftermarket switches/relays.
if i had the means, i would scavenge an appropriate weatherpack connector off a junkyard car and solder on the ends of the new wires to make a real connection of OEM quality.
besides, crimp connectors rarely make the installation clean enough for my personal preferance.
solder and heat shrink are the only way for me
