Can anyone please guide me on how to tighten the crankshaft pulley to the recommended 195 lb ft of torque without the crank turning on you? Any help would be appreciated
crankshaft pulley
- Thread starter mk3forme
- Start date
If the engine is in the car, put it in gear and engage the emergency brake. As long as it is a manual transmission, which your profile says it is.
If the engine is out of the car, bolt something to the flywheel, like a long bar, and get someone to hold that while you torque the front.
If the engine is out of the car, bolt something to the flywheel, like a long bar, and get someone to hold that while you torque the front.
when i tried to do it grimjacks way it kept turning and turning... i just pulled my radiator off and held the impact gun there for 7-8 minutes... it didn't break off and has kept tight since then 
5th gear is the best to use. A properly functioning parking brake and clutch are needed as well. It was real easy with solid motor mounts this last time for me. I've also had luck with an assistant wedging a prybar in the flywheel teeth at the starter hole, as an alternative method. Whatever you do, make sure that thing is tight!!!
I've also had luck with an assistant wedging a prybar in the flywheel teeth at the starter hole, as an alternative method. Whatever you do, make sure that thing is tight!!!
Two times I did the crankpulley torqe is as follows:
1. jack car up high
2. remove dust cover between engine and transmission. Its on the bottom back side of the bell housing
3. put a pry-bar or large screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel and wedge it against the bell housing.
4. have your friend tighten the pulley bolt with a torque wrenge.
This way is very effective to remove the bolt as well.
1. jack car up high
2. remove dust cover between engine and transmission. Its on the bottom back side of the bell housing
3. put a pry-bar or large screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel and wedge it against the bell housing.
4. have your friend tighten the pulley bolt with a torque wrenge.
This way is very effective to remove the bolt as well.
+11!!!!eleven for torque wrench @ 195 lb/ft with car in 5th gear and e-brake on... then removing torque wrench, installing breaker bar with 4 foot pipe and having 2nd person pull as you push and move the bolt another 1/8 turn past 195 lb/ft
Man these forums are awesome. Alot of good info here! Thanks alot guys I appreciate all the help!
B
Boostaddctn
Guest
Supraholic said:
Thats what I have done so far in the path, pretty useless everyime I try to toy around with the gears and hand brake... aight peace
see, silver88jabroni knows whats up!
only catch is, when you torque on the bolt, the whole engine is goign to rock, then its going to compess the s prings in the clutch disc, and THEN itll finally start torquing the bolt. so just keep that in mind. just cuz the wrench moves 1/8 turn doesnt mean the bolt did... thats all the slack in the driveline being pre-loaded.
only catch is, when you torque on the bolt, the whole engine is goign to rock, then its going to compess the s prings in the clutch disc, and THEN itll finally start torquing the bolt. so just keep that in mind. just cuz the wrench moves 1/8 turn doesnt mean the bolt did... thats all the slack in the driveline being pre-loaded.
ok also i put a little grease on the end of the cranks and the inside of the pulley to help me get it on... Now im thinking this might have been a bad idea or is it? I have read that if there is a problem sliding it back on to lightly sand any rust off and use some anti sieze paste. What do you guys think??
yeah, get some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper, and spray some WD40 on it and sand the snout of the crank to remove imperfections and surface rust. rinse with WD40 and wipe dry. you can apply some anti-seize if youd like, this will prevent it from... well, seizing.
its not a bad idea. the woodruff key in the crank is what physically keeps the pulley from moving, not friction between the crank snout and the pulley
its not a bad idea. the woodruff key in the crank is what physically keeps the pulley from moving, not friction between the crank snout and the pulley
Thanks again guys. I guess I can look into sending back these SST I ordered to do this job with. I dont think I'll be needing them now. With that note if you guys ever need any of the tools mentioned in the service manual I found the Co that supplies the tools. All you have to do is call and give them the number in the TSRM and they will tell you if that number is current or been replaced.