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well... i suppose i can see what you mean by our setups being based on airflow. ive normally seen poor throttle tip in response due to lenghtend distance between the AFM and the throttle body, particularly DSM's w/ FMIC setups Subaru's w/ FMIC setups. a hesistation caused by the delay of airflow...

ive decided i want to bump the rev limit on my STOCK CT powered setup. i want to shift at 7500 because i CAN. i have a motor that will handle it... including the fasteners, oil system, head gasket, portwork, manifold, fuel and such. im not worried about my motor coming apart. you guys let me...

pics or ban. i also emailed racerjake from his website to see if he could help me identify the crystal in my 89 ecu. im not sure what im looknig for. but ive already done thru-hole soldering on the toyota ECU PCB, so im not afraid of that. im confident in my electrical skills, i just have to...

nate, great work. im impressed. your car is tastefully executed and got good power too. aer you still on stock ECU? were you on pump or mix or race? if youre on AEM, what ign timing are you pulling under boost, 12, 14*... 10*? looks like your turbo might be as laggy as my T88H could turn...

if you put 89+tails on a pre89 car, the wiring sees the LED spoiler light as a short to ground and lights up the failure warning thingy on the dash. you have to add some sort of resistor gimmick into the circuit.

youll probaly have $500 tied up in mating a 2jz upper to the 7m runners in no-time flat. ask negativegeforce/Dan. he has this setup w/ a Q45TB. it looks bad ass, but for the money he spent, he could have had the baddest assed manifold ron makes WITH a alt drop-bracket.

lucky! thats what i want... but, hey, i konw guys that put down 1200+hp thru the 3-row. if its good enough for them, its good enough for me... i guess? lol

the divided inlet MR2 turbo is the "Twin entry" twin scroll version from the 2nd gen MR2... yet again. if you are desperate, you can get a regular T4, slot the bolt holes and itll bolt right up to the stock manifold. this is how SP makes bolt-on turbos.

lol... having a targa doesnt mean you have to suffer in the heat. owning a targa car gives you the best of both worlds. when the targa is on, the chassis rigidity is right on par w/ a hardtop. and w/ the top on, the AC works just as fine as it does in a hardtop but on those beautiful...

i replaced all my fuel lines because i wanted to. i have this OCD way of over engineering/over-doing my mods. all you really need to do is just remove the stock FPR and hardline, convert to the -6an, like the JBLmk3 kit. or you can just pick up the parts as i specified in my thread. yes...

well, it could also be that the diaprhagm in the top of the bov is torn and leaknig. if this is the case, the bov wont OPEN when it should, causing the surge. put a hose on the nipple and suck/blow on it. if it leaks out relatively fast (draw a mouthful of air, cover hose w/ tongue, tongue...

you never get all the oil out of your motor. but having 10% contaminated oil after an oil change is far better than 100% contaminated oil w/o an oil change. i wouldnt worry about the fact that you cant get all the oil out... there really isnt much you can do except remove your oil filter...

what FPR did you get? you have to use AN/JIC fittings. hardware stores dont carry them. they are for industrial/hydraulic plumbing use. you need to use a metric-to-an adaptor to allow use of AN/JIC plumbing to connect your new FPR. this thread should help you out...

yes, slim jims would do it with your alarm set, unlocking the door WITHOUT the key will set it off. the sensor for this is clipped to the tumbler itself and is internally actuated by your key. if the tumbler is NOT turned, the system will not disarm.

Targa FTMFW.. nothing says "i drive a $49,000* sports car" like having a fucking ROOF that comes off! i mean, seriously... 240's are hardtops cuz they are cheap-shit cars. *=price adjusted for inflation.

ive always liked the Purolator PureOne filters. they are that sweet-ass metallic blue w/ the rainbow colored lettering and the mirrored sticker! it was the best alternative to the Fram units at VatoZone. as far as im thought, the oil's ability to trap and suspend contaminants was reflected...

if anyone wants the 89+ CC, ive got a spare unit. btw Jeff... why is your Hazard switch on the left of the steering? whats in the slot to the right of the column????

there are 2 variants of the 3SGTE CT26. well, 3 technically. there are 3 generations of the 3SGTE 1G; single scroll CT26, smaller exhaust AR, same turbine, smaller compressor, same cold housing 2G: twin scroll CT26, "larger" exhaust AR, same turbine, smaller compressor, same cold housing...

dont use stock shit because its SHIT. 1jz is no good because the internal plenum volume is not great enough for a 3 liter engine. ideally, you want at least half the swept volume of the engine. so at least 1.5L internal volume in the plenum to act as a surge tank. 2jz is no good because...

the diaphragm on the bov's could be torn or cracked and leads to an inactive bov. so its possible that its just hanging up and not releasing... which would explain your compressor surge, "Flutter". but ive also seen stock bov's that seized up and hung open, creating massive boost leaks.