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I thought about mounts. I know mine are good. BUT, the mounts should absorb most of the weight of the engine/trans and absorb most of the torsional stress. The mounting system should not effect any back and forth play from end to end. Even while it might slightly, there is quite a bit gap...

This is what I cant figure out. I don't understand why some of us have this problem and others dont. Is anyone aware of ANY change at all in chassis design to how the radiator sits year to year? I'm not.

inlet/outlets are stock size iirc, no need to increase. Just cut out my shroud piece by piece :( Needless to say.....this is round 4....im frustrated. I've been through multiple fans, two shrouds, 4 mishi rads, 2 stock rads and lots of money in coolant.

Update. Failure. Video below. Old rad out, plus double row oil cooler shot :) : Sits too high for one: too much clearance to fan shroud: Leads to this after .75 miles: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rujHoWvBX2w

For those who have and have had Mishimoto radiators, the new design is finally in and in my possession :icon_bigg. Only took about a year and three months :aigo:. It looks exactly the same, however, according to Pat, the overall design was thinned out about 10mm which should be more than enough...

It will be extremely difficult to warp a 7m block after only 6k miles. Use a precision measuring device if you really want to be sure. I have a used HKS stopper if you would be interested, just remove the viton and you should be good to go.

Update Word has it, new models are in.....finally :3d_frown: Pat is confirming this for me with his team. If so Ill have it shipped to me soon. I also requested a list of changes to the new design.

Guess I got lucky then. Got mine less than a year ago.

^He blew two holes in his block. I don't think even a stressed *might* is applicable lol

You may be able to squeak some power out of adjustable, but for the most part they are a waste of time w/o some cams to pair up

Your local dealer SHOULD have a record of the key based on your VIN. I can almost promise you they will say they don't, but they DO. Insist on them checking, I've had to on several occasions. Got remakes based on the VIN as far back as an '88 (manufacture date Oct. 87 IIRC) edit: In fact, if...

^exactly what he said. Why even bother risking any use in the future? Cast pistons are relatively cheap, buy new. Consider the old ones cool paper weights with a story to go along with them.

A little known secret i've learned over the years is the TB is the answer. There are adjustment screws on the TB, slightly open the TB and no more stalling. Yes, it will slightly up your idle depending how much you do it, but its an easy solution to no stalling when venting to ATM

Hilarious and awesome! For once the police did the right thing by writing a false report.

no, head must be removed, just did it this past summer, it sucks.

^Your conclusion is severely misguided. You messed up somewhere. You need to fix CX racing's mistakes, then your own.

You will be happy with the 6 puck. Personally I use the sprung 6 with Xtreme PP and it engages very nicely. I stall every once in a while but that's just because I forget im not still on my RPS which has a very different engage point (far towards the steering wheel side versus close to the floor...

Hope this is not a trend. That clutch disk in the pic looks awful, but if they say its normal.... I just switched from RPS 3200 6puck combo to an ACT extreme 6 Puck setup. No complaints at all. Much smoother engaging than the RPS ever was. Again i hope this is not a trend, though I am using a...

^I know you've done it before, don't remember how long ago, but you should just put a short list of what you had to do to this point to make this turbo reliable now. That way other people will know exactly what to do to get it to full potential before the install. I know you did the grub screw...

^running into the same issue. No one will answer at any extension or by email.