BHG, MHG question PIC.

MKIIIarpus

Jumping in head first!
Aug 8, 2011
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youngsville,NC
Well, much to my dismay I blew the head gasket last night after finally getting the car running w/the new turbo. Blew at cyl 1 and 6. Gasket didn't look bad at all. Motor was supposedly rebuilt 6k ago .020 over. Well it looks like that was true, however they aren't cp pistons like the po stated, they are the npr replacements. I have a couple questions,

One does the deck of the block look like I could polish it out to put on a MHG, the car had one on there, unsure of brand. I'm looking to make 4xxwhp... I know the pistons will hold as long as I keep the detonation down, so I was gonna go with the thickest hks gasket the stopper version, to lower the compression a little. I just wanna make sure the block could be cleaned up in car to prep it for another MHG. Also I have a lex afm, 550's and safc, I think that should do to get me north of 400whp. The turbo is a master power, approx. 60 trim. What do you guys think, here is a pic after head removed.

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FlawLessHOVA

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May 9, 2011
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Straight edge is your best friend right now. Start checking the block for any warpage, same for the head.
 

MKIIIarpus

Jumping in head first!
Aug 8, 2011
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Have a resurfaced head ready to go on, just wanna make sure I can do another MHG and what needs to be done to the head to prep for it. I'll check the deck with a straight edge, doubt I'd have any warpage, the pop wasn't even bad enough to mix oil and coolant, didn't over heat, should be alright (hopefully).
 

IwantMKIII

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Jun 12, 2007
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It will be extremely difficult to warp a 7m block after only 6k miles. Use a precision measuring device if you really want to be sure. I have a used HKS stopper if you would be interested, just remove the viton and you should be good to go.
 

suprarx7nut

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MKIIIarpus;1759981 said:
Also it seems as if they used some sort of rtv, or something on a lot of the actual gasket surface. I thought that was a no no..?

That is a nono. Also, you need to check for any low spots, imperfections, pitting, unflat areas. Without taking that to a machinist, I wouldn't put on an mhg. Go regular composite if you want it to be reliable and keep yourself below 350hp or pull the whole motor.

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suprarx7nut

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Iwantmkiii said:
It will be extremely difficult to warp a 7m block after only 6k miles. Use a precision measuring device if you really want to be sure. I have a used HKS stopper if you would be interested, just remove the viton and you should be good to go.

I agree, but you're assuming the block was perfectly flat before the last rebuild. I'd say it's possible it wasn't prepped correctly the first time and that's why the current owner is facing a BHG after only 6k miles. A properly done MHG should last 10 times that long, even at significantly elevated boost. 6k on an MHG is a concern. Either you have a terrible tune, annealed head, or poor prep on this last head gasket job.



mkiiichip;1759988 said:
Come again? Now there shouldn't be a lot, but its definitely not a nono.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=55

The small amount of RTV on the rear timing cover called for in the TSRM is required. "RTV, or something on A LOT of the actual gasket surface" is definitely a nono. By no means would I consider the small amount on the rear timing cover, "a lot".

OP: was the RTV on any part of the gasket other than the very front as the tsrm link shows? If so, that'd be a nono. An MHG should require absolutely nothing because the deck has been prepped to be extremely smooth and flat. If the PO used a bunch of RTV on a MHG they were either unaware how an MHG works or they were afraid that the unprepped deck wouldnt seal with the MHG and tried to bandaid multiple gunshot wounds to the chest...
 

MKIIIarpus

Jumping in head first!
Aug 8, 2011
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Yes it was a thin film in a couple of other spots on the gasket. I also think the lean spike had something to do w/it along with the studs not having full tq on them. I want to do an hks stopper gasket on it, but I'm not pulling the block out to do a head gasket. And 350whp isn't gonna cut it. So assuming the lean spike and the po's improper install blew the gasket, what should I do from here to put on the MHG? I was going to remove any rtv, was gonna polish it with some lapping compound and a cotton cloth to really get it nice and shiny smooth again, and use a straight edge and feeler gauges just to be safe that it's perfectly flat. What do you guys think? I know a lot of people say pull the block in threads I have read, but theirs weren't rebuilt recently and didn't have a MHG already on them. I also think the compression was too high as the gasket I pulled out was pretty thin, will measure tonight. Oh yeah I'm using a different head than the one that I pulled off the car.
 

suprarx7nut

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MKIIIarpus;1760010 said:
Yes it was a thin film in a couple of other spots on the gasket. I also think the lean spike had something to do w/it along with the studs not having full tq on them. I want to do an hks stopper gasket on it, but I'm not pulling the block out to do a head gasket. And 350whp isn't gonna cut it. So assuming the lean spike and the po's improper install blew the gasket, what should I do from here to put on the MHG? I was going to remove any rtv, was gonna polish it with some lapping compound and a cotton cloth to really get it nice and shiny smooth again, and use a straight edge and feeler gauges just to be safe that it's perfectly flat. What do you guys think? I know a lot of people say pull the block in threads I have read, but theirs weren't rebuilt recently and didn't have a MHG already on them. I also think the compression was too high as the gasket I pulled out was pretty thin, will measure tonight. Oh yeah I'm using a different head than the one that I pulled off the car.

You have three options.

1. Pull the motor, do it right and have a machinist do the proper work for an mhg. You'll be set for whatever power you want.

2. Run less power, use oem gasket, no machining required. Reliable, less power.

3. Do an improper mhg install and run high power. You'll blow the gasket again. And you'll probably blame the 7m and not your own stupidity.

If you don't pull the motor, you shouldn't do a mhg. Period. It's very simple.

Lapping it by hand induces low spots and doesn't really buy you anything unless you pull some sort of inhuman miracle and lap it perfectly flat by hand. It doesn't mean shit that the motor had a recent mhg install. The mhg failed. And it will fail again if you install it with no machine work. It might be 20 miles, it might be 2000. If you like that risk, then go for it. I'll be the first to point out its your fault, and not the motors. ;)


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MKIIIarpus

Jumping in head first!
Aug 8, 2011
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Or I buy this tool http://suprasonic.org/HKS/hksgaskets.html and do it in the car and it does a better job than the machine shop would.... hmmm I think I'll do this. Then I get my way, and you don't get to blame my "stupidity". More than one way to skin a cat right. No need for you to assume you know what I would do if it blew again.

---------- Post added at 07:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------

Is there anybody else that has any advice besides " do it the way I would or your stupid " ? Anybody hit 4xxwhp with a OEM head gasket with arp studs?
 

IJ.

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MKIIIarpus;1760060 said:
Or I buy this tool http://suprasonic.org/HKS/hksgaskets.html and do it in the car and it does a better job than the machine shop would.... hmmm I think I'll do this. Then I get my way, and you don't get to blame my "stupidity". More than one way to skin a cat right. No need for you to assume you know what I would do if it blew again.

---------- Post added at 07:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------

Is there anybody else that has any advice besides " do it the way I would or your stupid " ? Anybody hit 4xxwhp with a OEM head gasket with arp studs?

You may get it smooth with that tool but it's not going to be flat...
 

MKIIIarpus

Jumping in head first!
Aug 8, 2011
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IJ.;1760068 said:
You may get it smooth with that tool but it's not going to be flat...

That's what I'm looking for. Check for flatness with straight edge and feelers. Confirm flat then use tool to smooth. If not flat, then I guess block has to come out, if that's the case I'll do forged pistons while it's out.
 

IJ.

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MKIIIarpus;1760074 said:
That's what I'm looking for. Check for flatness with straight edge and feelers. Confirm flat then use tool to smooth. If not flat, then I guess block has to come out, if that's the case I'll do forged pistons while it's out.


It's a HUGE PITA to do in car, your back isn't going to thank you ;)

That and you can't be sure where all the Cast Iron and Lapping compound is going to end up.

My Lapping plate is 3 times bigger than the Sonic round ones and I don't trust it to make things "flat" due to human physiology.

You're starting with a suspect surface that's already blown a MHG, careful checking with a precision straight edge is a step in the right direction, using a steel yard stick isn't.

I'm not saying all this to discourage you it's just that I've been there done that and towards the end of my 7M journey I'd worked out a system that made NHG's a thing of the past, it was a good feeling. :)

Cut any corners and you'll be back to step one in a short time.
 

MKIIIarpus

Jumping in head first!
Aug 8, 2011
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I understand, I just hate that the composite gaskets aren't good for over 35x whp. It seems everywhere you look somebody has a different opinion or made this or that work. Even as most said, most machine shops can't even get that surface. Hard to dicyfer what is hype, what isn't, and what is actually working for everyone. I'm thinking if disassembly of a block is required to replace a head gasket then maybe the supra wasn't the car for me. lol
 

IJ.

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Composite will hold 400ish but 1 rattle/detonation and it's all over.

In the Toyota V8 I ran in the 240z I was running low comp and 30 psi with composite HG's, as always it's all in the tune.
 

suprajztwenty

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Nov 5, 2009
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if the motor is "fresh", why not pull it out and verify the bottom end? a bhg would be the least of my worries (especially after 6k miles), but mostly because the previous owner already lied once...i mean how many miles do you think are on it??? only way to estimate is to pull the bottom end, measure and inspect.

on top of all that, with a bare block you wont have to worry about the compound getting down into the rings when you try and lap the surface.

i can see why you wouldnt want to buy the tools to pull the motor, like a hoist or a stand...but you can pick them up for maybe 150 used. if all checks out as normal, put it back together and call it a day, or like you said, upgrade to forged pistons.

seeing that its had a rebuild i just wouldnt take the change in investing the money in head work, gaskets and time involved without making sure the bottom end is tip top.
 

suprarx7nut

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MKIIIarpus;1760102 said:
I understand, I just hate that the composite gaskets aren't good for over 35x whp. It seems everywhere you look somebody has a different opinion or made this or that work. Even as most said, most machine shops can't even get that surface. Hard to dicyfer what is hype, what isn't, and what is actually working for everyone. I'm thinking if disassembly of a block is required to replace a head gasket then maybe the supra wasn't the car for me. lol

I agree that there are a dozen different opinions flying around and it's tough to find the truth. You're new to the mkiii world, (from the sounds of it) and we just want to make sure you dont make a quick mistake now that you'll regret down the road. These engines take more than the average tuner attention and will quickly punish you for any shortcuts.

Keep in mind that Sonic page was written when 7M blocks were 5-15 years newer than they are now. The average Supra was much closer to new than it is today.

I'm sure there are plenty who have made a poorly prepped engine hold 500 whp for much longer than most of us would expect, but the bottom line is that there is a clearly defined, published method to a successful MHG install and it *always* involves fresh *high quality* machine work. Anything short of that and you are asking for trouble. The inline 4's (EVO, STI, Neon, Civic, Integra...etc.) and V6 motors have a substantially smaller surface area. That makes it MUCH easier to do prep work on the motor in car. You can easily get a lapping plate that covers the entire block and you just have a smaller space to mess things up. The inline 6 is LOOOONG and gives you plenty of opportunity for catastrophic error that you wont even notice while doing the prep work. You can finish lapping it and see a "perfectly flat, mirror finish" when in reality, there are 3 low spots and 200,000 grains of cast iron and diamond paste floating in your oil passages waiting for the first start up to start tearing at your bearings while the low spots gradually cause a BHG.

HKS makes a special note with their gaskets (even the Stopper) stating that the gasket provides NO protection against any imperfections in the deck material of the block or head and it should only be used on a fresh, flat, smooth surface. Their gasket is designed to be used on a perfect block and perfect head. Nothing else. Same goes for any other MHG. They were never meant to just be thrown on a used engine and deliver better results than the composites.

In the end it's your choice and I wont be hoping for your demise if you choose to lap it in car and go MHG. IJ's opinion is worth 10x more than mine anyways so I'd heed his warning much more than my own. Good luck either way. :)

suprajztwenty;1760165 said:
if the motor is "fresh", why not pull it out and verify the bottom end? a bhg would be the least of my worries (especially after 6k miles), but mostly because the previous owner already lied once...i mean how many miles do you think are on it??? only way to estimate is to pull the bottom end, measure and inspect.

on top of all that, with a bare block you wont have to worry about the compound getting down into the rings when you try and lap the surface.

i can see why you wouldnt want to buy the tools to pull the motor, like a hoist or a stand...but you can pick them up for maybe 150 used. if all checks out as normal, put it back together and call it a day, or like you said, upgrade to forged pistons.

seeing that its had a rebuild i just wouldnt take the change in investing the money in head work, gaskets and time involved without making sure the bottom end is tip top.

These are also very valid points. So far you have a motor that, for all you know, is on stock bottom end components about to fail even if the head gasket issue goes smoothly. There is a TON to gain from a full engine rebuild. Pulling the motor for even just a crank polish, professional block surfacing/lapping, head work, new bearings, rings, (pistons if you choose), etc... All that can even be done cheaply if you keep it simple. :) My engine hoist and stand put me back a whole $120 from craigslist/harbor freight and were two of the best investments I've made.
 
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MKIIIarpus

Jumping in head first!
Aug 8, 2011
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youngsville,NC
It's not really the money that's a problem. I also have all the hoists and such already. I guess I'm still just full of piss and vinegar b/c of the situation w/the car, I'm also fighting recovery of a severely broken leg and ankle that happened on may 15th so it's just a lot to take in. I know you guys are making very valid points, and at this point in time with the head and everything already off, it's even closer now to the motor coming out. I am new to the mkiii world but I've owned and wrenched on all types of cars. Mainly your typical small block v8's, but I've messed around with turbo volvo's, I had an m3 3.2 inline 6, so I understand your thoughts on the surface area. Looks like she's coming out. Since we are to this point now, what's gonna be my weak link in these bottom ends if searching in the 500whp range?
 

suprarx7nut

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I wont pretend to have a ton of experience at that power level, but I think your main concerns are simple for the bottom end. Aside from quality bearings and a solid crank polish/machining and checking clearances, I'm not sure what else will get you.

IJ and about a hundred others on here have been in that power range on multiple builds, so hopefully they can give some better advice.